Rod Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter 3BarEvo8
- Start date
Uhh, don't torque to yield.
That's ok, my engine is going to fall apart anyway. I didn't have the special bedplate sealant, I didn't use the bedplate alignment jig, I torqued the rod bolts higher than OEM torque, I reused all the bearings, drilled holes in my pistons, and ported my head with a Dremel.
That's ok, my engine is going to fall apart anyway. I didn't have the special bedplate sealant, I didn't use the bedplate alignment jig, I torqued the rod bolts higher than OEM torque, I reused all the bearings, drilled holes in my pistons, and ported my head with a Dremel.
I just had mine replaced with the WPC treated OEM bearings from BimmerWorld and a baffle welded in. These are at about 115k miles.
Is that this baffle? It looks different on the website: https://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-motorsports-oil-pan-baffle-bmw-n54-p1435.aspx
Are there any quick drain oil plugs to screw in or weld in ones that work well? Just curious. Not like the stock bolt is hard to use.
I agree. But good piece of mind for my track car. A friend of mine had his done at the same ship last week. He’s FBO and just street driven, and some of them were down heavy into the copper. At 75k miles.
Hoping someone can confirm.
The bearings I want are King CR222SV in STD and NOT +0.25mm? A bit uncertain.
The bearings I want are King CR222SV in STD and NOT +0.25mm? A bit uncertain.
Yeah mine is doing the same. Subframe will be out for turbos and inlets etc and oil pan off for new gasket and cleaning so perfect time for additional maintenance.
Just want to get the correct high quality part. Not sold on needing the special coatings/treating.
@ShocknAwe
You need the check the clearances, but generally if your just swapping in new shells you would go with a set of STD size.
in regards to coated vs. not coated. Clearence/Oil pressure are more important than anything. WPC is another option but it just reduces friction, where rod bearing life is more dictated by goemetry and oil pressure. They sure do spin nice by hand when you do it though
You need the check the clearances, but generally if your just swapping in new shells you would go with a set of STD size.
in regards to coated vs. not coated. Clearence/Oil pressure are more important than anything. WPC is another option but it just reduces friction, where rod bearing life is more dictated by goemetry and oil pressure. They sure do spin nice by hand when you do it though
@ShocknAwe
You need the check the clearances, but generally if your just swapping in new shells you would go with a set of STD size.
in regards to coated vs. not coated. Clearence/Oil pressure are more important than anything. WPC is another option but it just reduces friction, where rod bearing life is more dictated by goemetry and oil pressure. They sure do spin nice by hand when you do it though
So from this I gather that if the rod end has been worn over the last 110k miles I might need thicker bearings. Best to ask the shop to check clearance and order what they need then since I'm not DIYing this one.
Rod end would only be worn if the bearings spun. The bearing may wear, but if the rod journal wore, you’d be having a bad day.
I have an n54 as well and what I gather from this thread is that as long as your engine works fine and you haven't spun any bearings, you should be alright with a STD size set.
I'm asking here because I wouldn't want to create another thread but my plan is to take the Oil pan off - gasket is leaking anyway - and attempt to replace the bearings without taking the engine out. Do you guys think this is a bad idea?
My engine has 140k miles running fine.
I'm asking here because I wouldn't want to create another thread but my plan is to take the Oil pan off - gasket is leaking anyway - and attempt to replace the bearings without taking the engine out. Do you guys think this is a bad idea?
My engine has 140k miles running fine.
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