RHD Single Turbo Bottom mount setup

martymil

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Sep 6, 2017
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This is not my kit but I helped co-develop it over the last 4 years and it's about to fire up after the rod decided it wanted to have a divorce with the piston
and light saber the the block in half, just have to finish off the plumbing this weekend and she is back to the engine builders on the 26th to fire up.

The turbo is a GTX 3584RS and on the stock motor it made 493rwk on the Dyno dynamics heart breaker dyno, for comparison the highest we seen in the country on a fully built motor with a twin turbo setup was 450rwk.

The turbo is strapped to a fully forged closed deck engine including a ppm billet crank, lower comp pistons, Carrillo rods and a vac stage 3 head with schrick cams.

There was no expense spared on this motor build, every part in this engine is brand new except the block and head casting which has been modified to withstand the power he is trying to archive.

The engine runs a completely custom fuel system, IC which I designed, Plazmaman manifold and my custom charge pipe.

We are estimating easily 500rwk anything up to 600rwk and more as long as the block stays in 1 piece.

Here is a teaser pick and Mike will make the full write up when @V8bait fully tunes it after my run in procedure.



20210210_164943.jpg
 
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TedIsBoosted

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Jan 9, 2020
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Looking forward to hearing about this more.

RHD ST bottom mount is something great for the UK
 

TedIsBoosted

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Jan 9, 2020
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This kit was absolutely stupid money to build, the tolerances are that tight that
I'm not sure it could be repeated.
Yeah I bet the LFR (UK) was £6500 I think. It’s proper expensive. Need to figure out some ways of doing it
 

TedIsBoosted

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Jan 9, 2020
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Top mounts have their own issues with rhd and will never make the power a proper rhd bottom mount will.

They will still make big power just not as much
Yeah that’s what I’ve been reading. Going to stick with big twins for the build. Still unsure if I want low CR, because I only use 99 RON( euro) no access to E85
 

martymil

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Small boost higher compression, bigger boost low compression.

Some will argue but I've proven 9.5 comp 387 rwk with stock cams on 98 with either octane booster or e20.

E20 is the same but much cheaper, safer and wont dirty your plugs.

12 litres with every fill up keeps it at around e20.

I prefer low comp because it gives you more head room with timing and is more forgiving in harsh situations not that uk has them like us in OZ.
 

135i2

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Jul 23, 2017
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This build uses custom CP pistons with 9.8:1 compression and every option box ticked. Head is actually stage 3. When I bought most of my engine parts, years ago, VAC was the safest choice for a head. No N53 swap and not many with experience under their belts. If I didn't have all parts being slowly built the N53 head would be on this motor as well as sleeves and the closed deck.
 

135i2

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Jul 23, 2017
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Assuming I was completely starting from scratch with what I have learned over the last 13 years with this car I'd simply dump a GM LSA or 7.0lt naturally aspirated z06 donk with trans. If this motor blows, and despite the big spend, that'd be the next move. Bugger the purist approach... been living that super expensive path.
 
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TedIsBoosted

Sergeant
Jan 9, 2020
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Small boost higher compression, bigger boost low compression.

Some will argue but I've proven 9.5 comp 387 rwk with stock cams on 98 with either octane booster or e20.

E20 is the same but much cheaper, safer and wont dirty your plugs.

12 litres with every fill up keeps it at around e20.

I prefer low comp because it gives you more head room with timing and is more forgiving in harsh situations not that uk has them like us in OZ.
Yeah that makes more sense... I’ll speak around to discuss what’s best. Was even considering schricks cams for the build.

Really at the moment just building a big plan
 

135i2

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Jul 23, 2017
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Decide on the power level you're chasing, budget, then work back from there otherwise the spend will get away on you fast... and endlessly. Lol