Revshift 80A Motor Mount Review, 80A transmission mount review

[matreyia]

The combination of the Revshift 80a Motor Mount and Transmission Mounts is an upgrade that is very noticeable and makes the car feel, sound completely different than previously. The car has transformed into a BRUTAL razor blade like machine. Throttle response and power to pavement is almost instantaneous. I was taken aback and worried at first from the increase in NVH. But after driving for a few miles...it did begin to settle and the NVH is decreasing incrementally. I like this brutality.

1. NVH is noticeably increased, especially when crossing the car's particular resonant frequency. It feels like a track car, somewhat uncivil, no longer luxury.
2. Power delivery to the pavement is light years better compared to before the upgrade. I let my friend drive it before and after and he was astounded by the difference. The new mounts showed us just how soft and disfunctional the stock oe mounts were.
3. Once resonant frequency is passed, the car is silky smooth and not noticeable NVH.
4. The car soaks up road imperfections very quickly, like a brand new car. No rattles or anything.

Do I recommend them? Once again.... ABSOLUTELY. DO this upgrade along with the Stett Vacuum Canisters, Vader Solutions BOV Adapters... you won't regret it.

 

[MRC-5.56]

With the 80a mounts from revshift I set my idle to 900rpm. Hardly notice any NVH compared to the factory 750rpm idle

 

[matreyia]

With the 80a mounts from revshift I set my idle to 900rpm. Hardly notice any NVH compared to the factory 750rpm idle

You know what's weird? If the idle is 650.... there is barely noticeable NVH. But in the region of 690-800...the resonance is savage. Higher than 850... all is smooth again. I hope after a month things will smooth up even more.

 

[gmagnus7]

I wonder how the 80a engine mounts and 95a trans mounts would pair.

 

[matreyia]

I wonder how the 80a engine mounts and 95a trans mounts would pair.

I think they would be too much nvh. I have the 80a motor and trans mounts and idle at 700rpm regions is pretty noticeable.... I have the 95a tranny mounts too but did not install.

 

[derekgates]

Awesome review!

I have a set of motor/trans mounts in box waiting to install... How did the install go for you? Did you drop subframe?

 

[matreyia]

Awesome review!

I have a set of motor/trans mounts in box waiting to install... How did the install go for you? Did you drop subframe?

1. Disconnect headlight level sensor connector on driver side.
2. Secure engine hoist.
3. Release mount bolts
4. Take out subframe bolts and let subframe hang freely.
5. Remove and install mounts.
Do not take it subframe. More than enough room hanging from the wheel suspension.
Support subframe with proper jack when lowering.
Search YouTube for video...there is one.

 

[The Convert]

Use ramps, a piece of wood, a jack, and an engine brace. No need to drop the subframe.

 

[fmorelli]

Awesome review!

I have a set of motor/trans mounts in box waiting to install... How did the install go for you? Did you drop subframe?

It's a fairly easy job for a DIY. You can use a jack and chunk of wood to lift the engine up enough to swap out/in mounts.

Filippo

 

[derekgates]

1. Disconnect headlight level sensor connector on driver side.
2. Secure engine hoist.
3. Release mount bolts
4. Take out subframe bolts and let subframe hang freely.
5. Remove and install mounts.
Do not take it subframe. More than enough room hanging from the wheel suspension.
Support subframe with proper jack when lowering.
Search YouTube for video...there is one.

Ok that isn't TERRIBLE amount of work. I will get a engine 'holder' from Harbor Freight as I will eventually be doing oil pan gasket/turbos. Mounts must be in the near future.

Use ramps, a piece of wood, a jack, and an engine brace. No need to drop the subframe.

It's a fairly easy job for a DIY. You can use a jack and chunk of wood to lift the engine up enough to swap out/in mounts.

Filippo

Oh, well... That is FAR easier. So, just jack engine up and then remove mounts while engine is raised. Any concerns over wiring/hose clearances when jacking up?

 

[The Convert]

Ok that isn't TERRIBLE amount of work. I will get a engine 'holder' from Harbor Freight as I will eventually be doing oil pan gasket/turbos. Mounts must be in the near future.




Oh, well... That is FAR easier. So, just jack engine up and then remove mounts while engine is raised. Any concerns over wiring/hose clearances when jacking up?

Only use the jack as needed. Don’t go crazy and remove the mount arm first, then reinstall last. Helps make it so very little movement with the Jack is required.

 

[fmorelli]

Derek, ^^^^ what he said.

Filippo

 

[derekgates]

1. Disconnect headlight level sensor connector on driver side.
2. Secure engine hoist.
3. Release mount bolts
4. Take out subframe bolts and let subframe hang freely.
5. Remove and install mounts.
Do not take it subframe. More than enough room hanging from the wheel suspension.
Support subframe with proper jack when lowering.
Search YouTube for video...there is one.

Thank you! This was very helpful. Dropping subframe made this EXTREMELY easy. The hardest part was finding torque specs for the bolts. My Öhlins held up the subframe well above any concerning drop.

Use ramps, a piece of wood, a jack, and an engine brace. No need to drop the subframe.

It's a fairly easy job for a DIY. You can use a jack and chunk of wood to lift the engine up enough to swap out/in mounts.

Filippo

Thank you for the advice here. I went with the subframe drop and an engine brace.





The NVH is extreme. Driving the car is amazing but holy crap I can feel ALL THE VIBRATIONS. hahahaha

 

[fmorelli]

My money is on those trans mounts causing a good bit of that. This is why I went with Ben Liaw (Rogue Engineering) big rubber mounts with AKG cups.

Filippo

 

[derekgates]

My money is on those trans mounts causing a good bit of that. This is why I went with Ben Liaw (Rogue Engineering) big rubber mounts with AKG cups.

Filippo

True, I am considering swapping out the trans mounts to test that. RE trans mounts wee my original plans but the RevShift mounts were cheap enough to try when I ordered. I haven't seen many people change the bushings with DCT and maybe that is my mistake as well... Will experiment!

After 100k miles, my mounts felt perfectly fine with no collapsing. Quite shocking.

 

[matreyia]

True, I am considering swapping out the trans mounts to test that. RE trans mounts wee my original plans but the RevShift mounts were cheap enough to try when I ordered. I haven't seen many people change the bushings with DCT and maybe that is my mistake as well... Will experiment!

After 100k miles, my mounts felt perfectly fine with no collapsing. Quite shocking.

Today I just installed driver side stock 335i motor mount with reinforced 3m polymer to fill the voids of the stock mount. I raised my minimum idle to 900rpm and it is smooth as stock. So now the car has :

Driver side stock 335i reinforced engine mount.
Revshift 80A transmission mounts.
Passenger side revshift 80A engine mount.

I may also do a test of reinstalling my used rogue engineering trans mounts and see if I can lower my minimum idle less than 900.

 

[fmorelli]

I like the idea of running the passenger-side engine mount 80a only. It really takes more of a beating than the driver side.

@derekgates DCT may be different experience. I'm on MT so not apples to apples. IMO the RE trans mounts are excellent. The reason poly stuff is so prevalent is that it is far easier to have product produced than with rubber. To my thinking, rubber with a cup prohibits deflection while maintaining NVH properties. As they say, YMMV. If you test back to back with RE, I'll be curious what that experience yields you.

Filippo

 

[JimboFresh206]

Anyone wanna split a set of 80a's?

I like the idea of a driver side OEM mount and 80a passenger side, NVH sucks.

Also totally agree on the trans mounts causing the most NVH, it's the same on almost every previous BMW chassis.

I currently have the RE (e21 HD auto L/mount, the green ones for old ppl) and cups and would like to keep minimal nvh

 

[matreyia]

Anyone wanna split a set of 80a's?

I like the idea of a driver side OEM mount and 80a passenger side, NVH sucks.

Also totally agree on the trans mounts causing the most NVH, it's the same on almost every previous BMW chassis.

I currently have the RE (e21 HD auto L/mount, the green ones for old ppl) and cups and would like to keep minimal nvh

Are you asking if anyone is selling their single 80a? I might if you need one.

Vt

 

[JimboFresh206]

Yes plz!