PCV help once again

Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
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After failed facebook attempts at any good direction

I need some help with my PCV system as I've done quite a few different methods with no real good results.

My current setup is
- Head ports blocked
- AD PCV block off
- Low sidefrom AD block off to mishimoto catch can - VTT 1/2" check valve in line
- Other side of catch can to a T off the throttle body
- High side goes directly to my turbo 6266 with the stock flapper valve in place

After lots of driving and temps well above 212 I still have tons of yellowish gunk under my oil cap. It seems to be more than just condensation, seems to be blow by.

Engine shows very good compression, no cylinder leakage

car is a 2012 335is with 66k on it, docrace single turbo
 
Last edited:

JimboFresh206

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Jan 29, 2018
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Oil coooler/OFHG, draining the oil and seeing what comes out will tell you forsure.
 

JimboFresh206

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again, drain the oil and have it analyzed if your sure the block itself is healthy. If mayo comes out i would suspect those gasket's given the good leakdown result.
 

Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
19
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2012 335is
again, drain the oil and have it analyzed if your sure the block itself is healthy. If mayo comes out i would suspect those gasket's given the good leakdown result.

Wouldn't I see oil in the coolant tank if that were to happen? I think I am having more of a blowby/pcv issue
 

Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
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56EB3C2B-6243-48CE-B47F-D0C7F9C0186F.jpeg
 

JimboFresh206

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lol k. GL OP

looks like coolant in your oil.

that much blow by wouldn't be considered "normal" on a healthy motor.

but you clearly have the answers ;)
 
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Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
19
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2012 335is
lol k. GL OP

looks like coolant in your oil.

that much blow by wouldn't be considered "normal" on a healthy motor.

but you clearly have the answers ;)

It looks like blow by, smells like blow by and the pcv valve is blocked off. What do you think it is lol

Hence why I am looking for PCV help lolll thanks though
 
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JimboFresh206

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Your high side isnt blocked. And if you get to temp the water/condensation should have burned off.

If your so convinced it isnt moisture in your crank case (not the same thing as blow by) then get it up to temp longer...

Moisture creates that mayo, not blow by itself.
 

Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
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Your high side isnt blocked. And if you get to temp the water/condensation should have burned off.

If your so convinced it isnt moisture in your crank case (not the same thing as blow by) then get it up to temp longer...

Moisture creates that mayo, not blow by itself.

Never said the high side was blocked. The pcv is the low side. That fitting blocks off the passages to the intake side
 

JimboFresh206

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they both function to evacuate CC gasses and moisture. thats why it exists the high side is literally just a PCV/breather system for when the car is under load.

all the ADE delete does in your config is change the vacuum source, and yes you still have a PCV hence the Vargas check valve.

mayo (the white stuff your seeing) isn't BLOW BY, its condensation/moisture that is trapped under the VC or in the block (in the oil)

Bmws have done this forever. if you want to rule out coolant in the oil, or it just being moisture either bringing the oil temps up past 220 or having the oil analyzed will rule out both
 
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Boorda

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Precision you're kind of off to a rough start on here.
I'm not sure why you would ask a question, but then disregard suggestions from someone trying to help you.
Sometimes the real answer is not from the question asked. That's def not just blow-by.
 
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Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
19
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2012 335is
I apologize for the attitude, but I'm way past the... "it's the ofhg" solution, as those gaskets were just changed.

I have done the leakdown, I have done the compression, I've checked the coolant, there is no mixture of coolant and oil.
 

JimboFresh206

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Your assuming the gaskets were done correctly and that these gaskets don't just "go" sometimes. You also haven't confirmed that there isn't coolant in the oil, and you kinda are just looking for the answer "you want".

Again get it up to temp (212 isn't hot enough)

And if it's still milky drain the oil, visually inspect it, and then have it analzyed.
 

Precision

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Jan 15, 2019
19
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2012 335is
Your assuming the gaskets was done correctly and that these gaskets don't just "go" sometimes. You also haven't confirmed that there isn't coolant in the oil, and you kinda are just looking for the answer "you want".

Again get it up to temp (212 isn't hot enough)

And if it's still milky drain the oil, visually inspect it, and then have it analzyed.

Well lets go with that because that's cheaper than other issues. I've built a few N54s I'm sure the gaskets are done right. But you're right I shouldn't rule that out.

Oil temps were up to 240 the other day as I put the stock oil cooler valve back in to combat this moisture.
 

JimboFresh206

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if temps were up to 240, i would just skip everything and have the oil analyzed. if its just high in water content, THEN i would look into the PCV. but if you get glycol etc.. in the report then you've got coolant in there.

FWIW if your low side check valve inst opening/is jammed i could see this occurring because you would only be evacuating CC gasses from the high side.
but thats as simple as taking the valve off and shaking it to listen for a click/snap/thud/tick etc..

Normally "Blow by" issues will be from a cracked ring-land, head, worn rings etc.. and since your comp+leakdown look good i would rule out the rest first.

Have you tried just running it VTA, and then getting it up to temp/getting on it, and seeing if that cuts down on the mayo?
 

Precision

Lurker
Jan 15, 2019
19
3
0
Ride
2012 335is
if temps were up to 240, i would just skip everything and have the oil analyzed. if its just high in water content, THEN i would look into the PCV. but if you get glycol etc.. in the report then you've got coolant in there.

FWIW if your low side check valve inst opening/is jammed i could see this occurring because you would only be evacuating CC gasses from the high side.
but thats as simple as taking the valve off and shaking it to listen for a click/snap/thud/tick etc..

Normally "Blow by" issues will be from a cracked ring-land, head, worn rings etc.. and since your comp+leakdown look good i would rule out the rest first.

Have you tried just running it VTA, and then getting it up to temp/getting on it, and seeing if that cuts down on the mayo?

VTA the high side, and cap off the low side?