Oil leaks galore....

Sixbanger

Specialist
Jun 20, 2017
89
20
0
Ride
08 135I
I'm very overwhelmed with oil leaks and I take care of this car very well. I've put off the oil filter housing gasket for 2 months due to the extreme humidity in SOuth Floirda and having gone through 2 heart transplants its not that easy, but i manage to get through the tough jobs on this car. 2 months ago I replaced the valve cover and a brand new oem gasket with a used bmw valve cover. I inspected the valve cover thoroughly and it was fine, no cracks. Now there's leak spots around the perimeter of the valve cover. When I tightened the valve cover down all I did was hand tighten the valve cover to the head, because I've read that not much torque is needed. I didnt torque down to spec in fear of cracking valve cover. Turbos were replaced last year during Spring time, but I'm getting smoke at a dead stop. Turbos are questionable and were bought from Mike Turbo. All I'm going to say is what a mistake that was. Tonight I inspected the engine and here's some shots of the oil leaks. I'm also leaking oil from the pcv valve area and I doubt its puddling down next to the metal tray of turbo 2. I really dont want to put drop it off at a mechanic so he charge me hundreds for gasket repairs. I want to do as much as I could, but if I have to I'll still bring it in. Not sure what to do moving forward, this very stressful. I do have a new oil filter housing gasket at home. I guess I can start on that this weekend.

PS I'm losing about 1/4 of a quart of oil every 2 months.
 

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Snertz

Specialist
Nov 7, 2016
64
51
0
NY
Ride
2011 1M
You should torque the cover to spec, the bolt holes have metal sleeves that prevent it from being crushed. I'm willing to bet some of the leaks are because the seal isn't compressed sufficiently. The PCV may also be suspect hence the smoking.
 

derekgates

Lieutenant
Feb 23, 2018
740
375
0
NW FL
derekgates.us
Ride
2011 335is
Agree with other sentiments here....

The valve cover is a pain point on these engines. Torquing to the 25Nm8-10Nm is very important, even with a suspect torque wrench, compared to hand tightening. You can also run into problems with the gasket folding over or not being in the correct place (I use a mirror to inspect). Finally, check the PCV to ensure it isn't clogged up.
 
Last edited:

silverstreak18

Corporal
Jan 3, 2018
129
67
0
Charlotte, NC
Ride
2016 M3
Agree with other sentiments here....

The valve cover is a pain point on these engines. Torquing to the 25Nm is very important, even with a suspect torque wrench, compared to hand tightening. You can also run into problems with the gasket folding over or not being in the correct place (I use a mirror to inspect). Finally, check the PCV to ensure it isn't clogged up.
Torque spec is 8.5 Nm for the valve cover to cylinder head bolts. I normally do 8 Nm, then do a second pass at 10 Nm. I also have had poor results with reusing these plastic covers even with a new gasket.
 

derekgates

Lieutenant
Feb 23, 2018
740
375
0
NW FL
derekgates.us
Ride
2011 335is
Torque spec is 8.5 Nm for the valve cover to cylinder head bolts. I normally do 8 Nm, then do a second pass at 10 Nm. I also have had poor results with reusing these plastic covers even with a new gasket.

Ack, crap, I was mixing up with fuel rail of 23Nm.


Any bolt that tightens down the valve cover to the cylinder head is tightened to 8.5 Nm.

Fuel line on driver's side = 13 Nm
Passenger side = 23 Nm

Regardless, it isn't much... and even if your wrench isn't very accurate you will have a much better time with leaks.