Mishimoto radiator?

The Convert

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anyone running one of these? If so, did you see any benefit from making the switch? Had to drain the coolant to have my turbo shipped and inspected, so now is a good time to make the switch if it's worth the $620 shipped prices I've seen.
 

MDORPHN

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Jan 28, 2018
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anyone running one of these? If so, did you see any benefit from making the switch? Had to drain the coolant to have my turbo shipped and inspected, so now is a good time to make the switch if it's worth the $620 shipped prices I've seen.

I'm running it. Decent upgrade over stock, but by most accounts the CSF (EDITED to correct earlier incorrect reference) is a better piece.

Neil
 
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VACust

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Dec 1, 2016
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I'm running it. Decent upgrade over stock, but by most accounts the CSR is a better piece.

Neil
Did you mean CSF? I looked at both and the CSF seems to be the best choice for the money to me. My car runs at about 223-228 and after going WOT and the pump runs hard it will be right down to 208-210. It takes FOREVER to warm up if ambient temps go below 50 degrees though. I only drove it once or twice in the winter below 40F but oil temps barely break 170 and engine 190 after a 30 minute drive when it’s winter cold out now.
 

MDORPHN

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Did you mean CSF? I looked at both and the CSF seems to be the best choice for the money to me. My car runs at about 223-228 and after going WOT and the pump runs hard it will be right down to 208-210. It takes FOREVER to warm up if ambient temps go below 50 degrees though. I only drove it once or twice in the winter below 40F but oil temps barely break 170 and engine 190 after a 30 minute drive when it’s winter cold out now.

Yes, sorry -- meant CSF. I'll edit above

Neil
 
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The Convert

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I'm running it. Decent upgrade over stock, but by most accounts the CSF (EDITED to correct earlier incorrect reference) is a better piece.

Neil

Did you mean CSF? I looked at both and the CSF seems to be the best choice for the money to me. My car runs at about 223-228 and after going WOT and the pump runs hard it will be right down to 208-210. It takes FOREVER to warm up if ambient temps go below 50 degrees though. I only drove it once or twice in the winter below 40F but oil temps barely break 170 and engine 190 after a 30 minute drive when it’s winter cold out now.

I saw the CSF ones as well, but the end tanks didn't look as nice to me. I'll have to take another look on the google machine and see what the core /tube and fin differences are.

VACust, is the radiator the only non stock item you have coolant and oil wise that would be affecting the temps?
 

The Convert

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So, I'm seeing what appears to be the same radiator being sold by CSF on Amazon for 2 different prices. One that says it's for the 335 and the 1M for $329 shipped, and one that says it's just for the 1M for $449. Both are part number 7045, but the 1M one says CSF-7045. Anyone have a clue on this?
 

VACust

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I saw the CSF ones as well, but the end tanks didn't look as nice to me. I'll have to take another look on the google machine and see what the core /tube and fin differences are.

VACust, is the radiator the only non stock item you have coolant and oil wise that would be affecting the temps?

At the time it was the only change to the cooling system. I now have a low temp oil T-Stat and bigger cooler.
 

VACust

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So, I'm seeing what appears to be the same radiator being sold by CSF on Amazon for 2 different prices. One that says it's for the 335 and the 1M for $329 shipped, and one that says it's just for the 1M for $449. Both are part number 7045, but the 1M one says CSF-7045. Anyone have a clue on this?
One should be for manual trans and the omore expensive should be for auto and DCT.
 
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doublespaces

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Alright. I'm picking up the csf radiator...what coolant mixture do you run in your car?

This one right here seems like a pretty good deal. It says its for manual trans, and this is the one I have and recommend since it deletes the automatic portion and leaves you with a larger coolant core. It would be assumptive that you'd relocate any auto cooler of course. A side note, my auto fan shroud wasn't a perfect match for the brackets on the back of my CSF radiator. I don't know if that is a manual to auto difference or if my radiator was just made incorrectly. They were close, but off.

https://www.amazon.com/CSF-7045-High-Performance-Radiator/dp/B01DXXE510/

Also to keep this in mind, the 1M and presumably the 335is use a larger fan, 850w if I recall. I'm not sure if the mounting brackets for those fan shrouds are different or not.

And for people who don't want to change their automatic cooling setup, this is the auto version:

https://www.amazon.com/CSF-7046-High-Performance-Radiator/dp/B01DXXE50Q/

But in my opinion, the extra $200 you spend for this would be better spent toward a proper auto cooler, so you can divorce the circuits.

As for coolant, I get some sort of G4 mixture or something to that effect from Autozone. Not all of them have it it seems, but there is a jug there that seems to be close to the factory descriptions. It is blue I believe.
 
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ShocknAwe

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The 1m has the extra connections for the left guard radiator same as ppk and the fan is slightly different as the bottom tabs that hold the fan in place on the ic are either spaced out/in around 5mm can remember which way

1M has larger fan/fan shroud, aux coolant line and aux radiator bracket to mount the driver's side (left) aux radiator. This mounts to the support bar behind the bumper and is incidentally necessary to mount the 1M ductwork.
 

Jeffman

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This one right here seems like a pretty good deal. It says its for manual trans, and this is the one I have and recommend since it deletes the automatic portion and leaves you with a larger coolant core. It would be assumptive that you'd relocate any auto cooler of course. A side note, my auto fan shroud wasn't a perfect match for the brackets on the back of my CSF radiator. I don't know if that is a manual to auto difference or if my radiator was just made incorrectly. They were close, but off.

https://www.amazon.com/CSF-7045-High-Performance-Radiator/dp/B01DXXE510/

Also to keep this in mind, the 1M and presumably the 335is use a larger fan, 850w if I recall. I'm not sure if the mounting brackets for those fan shrouds are different or not.

And for people who don't want to change their automatic cooling setup, this is the auto version:

https://www.amazon.com/CSF-7046-High-Performance-Radiator/dp/B01DXXE50Q/

But in my opinion, the extra $200 you spend for this would be better spent toward a proper auto cooler, so you can divorce the circuits.

As for coolant, I get some sort of G4 mixture or something to that effect from Autozone. Not all of them have it it seems, but there is a jug there that seems to be close to the factory descriptions. It is blue I believe.
Thanks for the info. I’m thinking of installing the auto version. The Amazon link to it includes a 1-Star rating. Any truth to this?

1-Star Rating
Causes car to run too cold, loss of MPG and high amounts of condensation in crankcase. Bad design
ByAmazon Customeron January 3, 2018

Verified Purchase
Radiator has no separation between the lower "tank" and upper "tank" causing the car to run cold all the time. Car will not develop heat. This is due to bad design and CSF nor the retailer will take the radiator back or repair it. CSF will not return calls
 

martymil

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1M has larger fan/fan shroud, aux coolant line and aux radiator bracket to mount the driver's side (left) aux radiator. This mounts to the support bar behind the bumper and is incidentally necessary to mount the 1M ductwork.

I was talking about the differences in the radiator and even though the fan itself is larger the actual shroud is smaller overall, in terms of how much room it takes up but it is ever so slightly deeper as in closer to the engine.
 

martymil

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I'm currently running the CSF radiator and it is amazing, I can watch my coolant temps drop as I drive. I live in Vegas and the average summer day is over 100degress. Plus their customer service is amazing

I wouldn't say that's a good thing as the thermostat controls the temps not the radiator, all the radiator does is cools water.

If your having temp swings I'll be looking into water pump or thermostat that's not working correctly.

What you should be looking for in a radiator is extremely stable coolant temps that don't fluctuate from the pre-set temp either in the tune or thermostat.
 

Jhernandez

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Nov 26, 2018
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Did you mean CSF? I looked at both and the CSF seems to be the best choice for the money to me. My car runs at about 223-228 and after going WOT and the pump runs hard it will be right down to 208-210. It takes FOREVER to warm up if ambient temps go below 50 degrees though. I only drove it once or twice in the winter below 40F but oil temps barely break 170 and engine 190 after a 30 minute drive when it’s winter cold out now.
Buyer be warned if you live in a cold weather state... I had the CSF 7046 installed on my E90 this past weekend. The car was garaged all weekend due to the snow storm that blew though. This morning we were sitting at 16F. The drive into work, the car took forever to heat up, was blowing Luke warm air the entire drive... It was a 30 minute commute in and my oil temps stayed steady at 160F. Normally, I'm hitting 240F a mile out from work. Read a review that stated the reason for this is because CSF Radiator has no separation between the lower "tank" and upper "tank" causing the car to run cold all the time. Car will not develop heat.

I'm going to monitor it tomorrow morning, if it continues, the radiator will be returned to ECS Tuning.
 

The Convert

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Thanks for bumping this thread...and therefore reminding me that I’ve been letting my car sit with everything ripped out of the engine bay for almost 6 months now :facepalm: oh well.

Would like to hear what you find though!
 
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VACust

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Buyer be warned if you live in a cold weather state... I had the CSF 7046 installed on my E90 this past weekend. The car was garaged all weekend due to the snow storm that blew though. This morning we were sitting at 16F. The drive into work, the car took forever to heat up, was blowing Luke warm air the entire drive... It was a 30 minute commute in and my oil temps stayed steady at 160F. Normally, I'm hitting 240F a mile out from work. Read a review that stated the reason for this is because CSF Radiator has no separation between the lower "tank" and upper "tank" causing the car to run cold all the time. Car will not develop heat.

I'm going to monitor it tomorrow morning, if it continues, the radiator will be returned to ECS Tuning.
Are you running an oil T-Stat or T-Stat delete? I ended up pulling the delete out and using an ADE oil thermostat and my oil temps get to operating temp a little better now. Oil still does not warm fast enough when it’s winter in Utah but my car doesn’t ever get used in the winter and the temps are great I’m the spring/summer/early fall.