Jmantx E92 Build Thread

[Jmantx]

So, it appears the PO had a blowout that ripped the corner off the rear bumper.

I'm waiting on an M-Sport bumper now.

The diffuser came in today. Besides that, there's not much going on with the car. Just been putting on lots of miles
By the way, does anyone have any problem putting ebay inlets on their car? I know I need 2" inlets, and I had ordered some before buying the CTS turbos, but RB told me not to use them and to buy his instead. I'm not going to go into why I'm not going to buy his stuff, just curious as to whether or not they are as bad as he claims.

 

[Torgus]

So, it appears the PO had a blowout that ripped the corner off the rear bumper.View attachment 67232
I'm waiting on an M-Sport bumper now. View attachment 67233
The diffuser came in today. Besides that, there's not much going on with the car. Just been putting on lots of miles
By the way, does anyone have any problem putting ebay inlets on their car? I know I need 2" inlets, and I had ordered some before buying the CTS turbos, but RB told me not to use them and to buy his instead. I'm not going to go into why I'm not going to buy his stuff, just curious as to whether or not they are as bad as he claims.

All I can add is I held in my hand RB, MMP, and I forget the 3rd make maybe it was VTT? and the RB inlets were of MUCH higher quality. Thicker, harder to compress, better connections, build quality, etc. The only ones I would use. Especially as we have all heard of 'cheap' inlets collapsing etc. A collapsed intake will kill a turbo. But use what you want. At the end of the day you usually get what you pay for. I have no skin in the game and as everyone probably knows I think a ST is the only good solution for various reasons.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Buy the RB’s I ran them in my 535i, the fit perfectly. I previously had MMP’s had nothing but issues, and they sucked to put in.

 

[Jmantx]

My turbos arrived... And I won't be putting them in until next week. Here's a quick cell phone pic I took this week.

 

[Jmantx]

So, I was planning to start on my turbo install yesterday, but life got in the way. I'll probably start next week. I installed my stage 2 lpfp (walbro 450), and I got inlets and a filter (going closer to stock).

One question for all of you, has anyone used the JB4 hybrid bef? Is that a good baseline until I get a custom tune?

 

[Jmantx]

Well, I started the turbo install this morning. I just got the front turbo out approximately 14 hrs later. Granted, I've only worked on it for 6 or 7 hours due to a tool run, etc.

The turbo I have out is somewhat surprising. It has zero shaft play, but it has a ton of wastegate rattle. Everything is looking good so far. I'll hopefully finish the install tomorrow, then fresh fluids and tuning to come.

 

[Jmantx]

Day 2 - turbos are in and all the lines are connected. I basically need to install one downpipe, then the subframe. Unfortunately, I broke a vband clamp I'm hoping to get another one tomorrow, then start tuning. I don't know how much power I was making before, but I do know I wasn't making boost until 3k rpm, and my jb4 logs claimed a 5.4 second 0-60 with the tires I have (incorrect size - 235/40r18 Barum cheapies - soon to be upgraded). Considering I don't drag race, that will probably be my gauge for performance improvements. I'm ready to get this car back on the road.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Day 2 - turbos are in and all the lines are connected. I basically need to install one downpipe, then the subframe. Unfortunately, I broke a vband clamp I'm hoping to get another one tomorrow, then start tuning. I don't know how much power I was making before, but I do know I wasn't making boost until 3k rpm, and my jb4 logs claimed a 5.4 second 0-60 with the tires I have (incorrect size - 235/40r18 Barum cheapies - soon to be upgraded). Considering I don't drag race, that will probably be my gauge for performance improvements. I'm ready to get this car back on the road.

did you buy a install kit, or use the oring's they provided?

 

[Jmantx]

did you buy a install kit, or use the oring's they provided?

Neither. I used orings my dad had around. He bought a variety for his e46, and had a bunch of leftovers.

 

[Jmantx]

Alright. Day 3. I reassembled everything with a new vband clamp from Principle BMW in San Antonio. I had the car on the ground and was filling it with coolant when I discovered the leak. Coolant was running down the turbo drain lines from the block. I decided the engine hoist wouldn't work anymore, bought a support bar, and dropped the subframe again - this time in about 40 minutes. I realized I didn't get the lines in all the way. I put them in properly, reassembled the coolant reservoir in the car, and no leaks. Tomorrow I should have it back on the road.

 

[Jmantx]

It's all assembled, but it won't start. Code A0B4. I think it's the starter relay. When I pulled it, it almost burned my fingers.

 

[Jmantx]

And I figured out 2 things - 1, I had a dead battery, and 2, when I push the start button, I can hear a motor start and stop under the hood. It just doesn't crank the engine. I'm putting in a starter this afternoon.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

My starter did the same thing. It was just a dead starter

 

[Jmantx]

My starter did the same thing. It was just a dead starter

Yeah, I figured I'd check everything else first. I just got a new starter, so hopefully I can put it on this afternoon.

 

[Jmantx]

Can anything go as planned on this car? The starter bolt that comes through the back of the bell housing wouldn't come loose with a 10mm wrench, so I had to order a n E12 wrench. Oh well. I should be able to get the car running soon. Then I need to stop spending money on this car. I have a 1985 C10 that's waiting for some love, plus it might be a good idea to save some money, right?

 

[Jmantx]

Well, it was the starter. My old one wouldn't turn, even by hand. This one cranks right up. I still have to reassemble the airbox, and I need to check to make sure I clicked the outlet fitting into the intercooler. However, I don't think I have any vacuum leaks anymore.

 

[Jmantx]

Ok, so I had an oil leak. Apparently one of the o-rings I used on the rear oil feed line did not work well. It half shredded. I dropped the subframe for the 3rd time and fixed that. It no longer leaks. Next issue: I've been getting a 2a82 code for the inlet camshaft. I'm guessing I must have knocked a plug loose, since I've never had it before. Any thoughts?

 

[Jmantx]

Update: I replaced the oil filter cap o ring and the oil filter. My 2a82 code is gone. Now I need to fix my unstable boost. Boost spikes, hits just over target, then drops and is rather unsteady, eg, 6-9 psi rather randomly. I'm guessing it's boost solenoids. I'm attaching a data log from this evening.

 

[Jmantx]

I've put about a hundred miles on the car so far, all on JB4 map 1 with the pump BEF. It definitely pulls harder than the old turbos. I noticed it blinks the traction control light through 50mph... But spinning ain't winning, so I'm going to replace tires soon. Hopefully replacing my solenoids will help it be consistent with boost and not surge.

 

[wheela]

I've put about a hundred miles on the car so far, all on JB4 map 1 with the pump BEF. It definitely pulls harder than the old turbos. I noticed it blinks the traction control light through 50mph... But spinning ain't winning, so I'm going to replace tires soon. Hopefully replacing my solenoids will help it be consistent with boost and not surge.

I don't know if it's just my car, but i'm x-drive and the traction control light will come on and cut power on me (even though I can't actually get the wheels to spin with x-drive). So I alway drive with off and have no issues with traction. Ironically, it's actually hazardous for me to leave traction control on because if I commit to a move based on my power level and all of a sudden there's no power, it's a really bad situation. Long way of saying try driving without traction control, you may be alright.