I just picked up a 2002 BMW X5

doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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2009 E93 335i
So I was needing an SUV because the E93 just isn't good at moving stuff or people. I was looking for a while and settled on this X5. The interior is nice, no rips, dents or faded paint, The car has a very, very slight oil leak, I'll have to take it in and see what it is and the dash dings about the coolant level being low, although its not. Other than that, I'm pretty happy with it for $4,000 and a clear title no accidents. Needs a wash, but here it is:

15820811_1543086019039428_712014760_o.jpg
 

ryanmamikel

Specialist
Nov 5, 2016
58
27
0
London Ontario, Canada
What seems to be the most common problem? This is the 4.4 V8

Engine wise:
-timing chain guides (plastic lined aluminum guide, chucks the plastic off to be chewed up by rotating parts, then makes a gaggle of noises)
-secondary air ports becoming clogged in the cyl heads (can require removal of cyl heads if bad enough)
-engine oil leaks. I know, Bmw, to be expected...... but these oil leaks are next level. 3 gaskets on the oil pan, front cover, valve cover etc.
-cam followers wear out
-central bolts for cam gears back out (rare occurrence, but have seen it happen twice that I can remember).
-some models were equipped with a water cooled alternator. Not bad to repair if it goes, but really expensive part.
-oil separator vents the majority of the pcv gasses into cyl 7 or 8 (can't remember which) Can cause washing of cylinder walls and potentially cylinder damage.

E53 chassis:
-ball joints, all of them. A lot. If it has rear air springs, deflate air springs to have the rear suspension checked. If it isn't deflated, suspension will check ok, until one of the ball joints falls out.
-cv shaft boots split open, inner and outer on front axles
-Brake lines, to the rear, in the area of the drivers feet below floor boards. (Probably different for southern climates)

There could be some stuff I missed.
 

doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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2009 E93 335i
Well I've got a lot to look forward to! Lmao

If I'm gonna go through all of this, at least I only spent 4,000 on the car. I'd be pissed if I spent 20-30k and dealing with this shit right after warranty expired.
 

doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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2009 E93 335i
At least its an M62B44 rather than the N62B44, totally different ball game with an entire separate list of issues.
Nice find though!

Honestly, before buying, I didn't even know there was an engine change in the years.

It could be worse. You could have made the decision to buy an early production Mercedes ML

You know, I did look at an ML 320 but didn't like the look of them. Originally I was looking at 03+ Range Rover, but decided I wanted more of a cheap beater that I didn't care that much about but still looked half decent.
 

Euro venom

Specialist
Nov 5, 2016
95
94
0
Tualatin, or
Engine wise:
-timing chain guides (plastic lined aluminum guide, chucks the plastic off to be chewed up by rotating parts, then makes a gaggle of noises)
-secondary air ports becoming clogged in the cyl heads (can require removal of cyl heads if bad enough)
-engine oil leaks. I know, Bmw, to be expected...... but these oil leaks are next level. 3 gaskets on the oil pan, front cover, valve cover etc.
-cam followers wear out
-central bolts for cam gears back out (rare occurrence, but have seen it happen twice that I can remember).
-some models were equipped with a water cooled alternator. Not bad to repair if it goes, but really expensive part.
-oil separator vents the majority of the pcv gasses into cyl 7 or 8 (can't remember which) Can cause washing of cylinder walls and potentially cylinder damage.

E53 chassis:
-ball joints, all of them. A lot. If it has rear air springs, deflate air springs to have the rear suspension checked. If it isn't deflated, suspension will check ok, until one of the ball joints falls out.
-cv shaft boots split open, inner and outer on front axles
-Brake lines, to the rear, in the area of the drivers feet below floor boards. (Probably different for southern climates)

There could be some stuff I missed.
Oil filter housing and breather hoses
 

doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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2009 E93 335i
So my bmw tech buddy checked the car out. He replaced the cv boots for me as they were wearing out. The giubo is starting to show a few signs of cracks, the valve cover gaskets need replaced, the expansion tank needs replaced and the intake manifold seals/gaskets need replaced. He said its possible that the rear main seal might need replaced. I'm having all the work done except for the rear main seal, he said that is a bigger job and he wants to fix the other gaskets and put some dye in to make sure before replacing that.

How much in labor to get the rear main seal replaced? I can't imagine it is cheap with the transfer case and all that in the way?
 

ryanmamikel

Specialist
Nov 5, 2016
58
27
0
London Ontario, Canada
I think the rear main seal is around 10hrs. I priced one out for a friend and it was around 150$ for the part, as it is the seal in a plate on the back of the engine. It was another 85$ or so for the flexplate bolts I think as well.

It's not terribly hard to do, only addition of work over a 2wd is that you have to undo the front driveshaft. But it is only held in by 4 bolts. This was also Canadian pricing (and my cost, which is 10% markup) on the parts, so I am sure they are more cheaply had in your area.
 
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doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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I don't think I want to pay 10 hours of labor on a 4000 dollar car. What kind of special equipment would I need to do this at home if it came down to that?
 
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