I just ordered a set of oil drain Fromm RB. I will chime in when I get them installed to see if they make a differences.
High Flow Oil Drain Reccomendations
- Thread starter Cswihart
- Start date
From what I noticed, all these new "cast" turbos don't have the turbos clocked 100% stock orientation. Usually causing issues with the front drain line. Kinking etc.
I feel RB "high flow drains" could help for this situation.
I feel RB "high flow drains" could help for this situation.
My car had smoking issue with stock turbos at 140k miles. It was burning oil, so I replaced the turbos with MMP.
Recently I’m seeing smoking issues again, saw the post and decided to get the oil drain just to eliminate any factor that has to do with the new turbos. RB high flow oil drains were installed last week, but I’m still seeing smoke on deceleration on low load. On high load, there’s no issue at all.
I’m starting to think the low side PCV is the culprit.
Recently I’m seeing smoking issues again, saw the post and decided to get the oil drain just to eliminate any factor that has to do with the new turbos. RB high flow oil drains were installed last week, but I’m still seeing smoke on deceleration on low load. On high load, there’s no issue at all.
I’m starting to think the low side PCV is the culprit.
Rob@RBTurbo
Lieutenant
Typically the low side PCV is the cheapest part that is to be tackled first, then next the drains (if not already equipped). If neither are to clear the oiling issues then all that is left is the more serious stuff like engine or turbos.
Rob
Check the flapper. If you want to be safe order a new one, and an upgraded PCV valve.
Or externalize the whole low side and plug the head ports.
@Rob@RBTurbo is it possible to install the high flow drains without dropping downpipes? Front turbo seems doable but not sure about the rear
Rob@RBTurbo
Lieutenant
We've had some say they have replaced the drains without removing downpipes NOR rear motor mount bracket but I do not see how? So until these Houdini's of the world show it being done I'll say that plan on removing downpipes and the rear motor mount to install them. Typically we recommend just doing them alongside turbo swaps, as going back in to add them later seems like a large potentially unnecessary PITA (unless you see some kinking of the OEM lines). Ultimately for smoking issues we'd suggest going with the Valve cover Gasket (or maybe entire cover if needed) and External PCV mods first. If at that point no cures to issues then starting considering that your engine and/or turbos are about toast, more likely than non-kinked OE oil drains being the cause.
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Felt like reviving this thread: I started playing around with Poiseuille's Law for a variety of things (ideal outlet piping size, exhaust sizing, etc...). Just out of curiosity I crunched the numbers to calculate the difference in flow between the stock drain size of 12.55mm and RB's at 13.85mm. RB's flow a little over 10% more than the stock ones, and would have the benefit of creating a straight path to the pan. I know Tony said it's simply not necessary and he could be totally right. But the fact is that when a journal bearing turbo has drain issues, bad things happen. That could be from a kink, drain size, or crankcase pressure. I think these are more of an insurance thing and I'm sure most of us have bought much stupider things for these cars.
You do understand, the drains simply gravity drain correct? I wish people could come here, and take a look at how much oil is coming out of the drain of a properly flowing N54 unit on the high-speed balancer at 60psi Oil pressure. It is a trickle. Yes drain size, and free flow is important, BUT the stock drains are HUGE for the amount of oil these turbos drain. The ONLY way you would have drain issues on these turbos and factory drains is if you have crankcase pressure, and they cannot drain. Adding "larger" drains to a properly working system is literally throwing your money down the drain... Sorry for the shitty pun, but it was required. Rob was scrambling to find a reason why his turbos were failing, and drain size was one of his calling cards a few years back. He came up with "high flow" drains as a way to remedy his smoking units. The stock drains are basically -10 AN on the ID. That is MASSIVE for these small turbos. Keep in mind the suggested drain size for a single turbo is -10, we have TWO of those...
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Yes @Chris@VargasTurboTech, but as we've determined the counterpoint is that crankcase pressure is not a simple thing to sort out in the greater PCV system discussion where it lives. I hate band aides. I get it. But I have to acknowledge that may be part of what's going on. But in a properly working setup, totally oversized for sure. Problem could be ... one wonders how many cars fit that scenario....
Filippo
Filippo
Sorry sir, but a 10% increase is doing NOTHING to help draining if you have too much crankcase pressure to drain a turbo to begin with, in that case, fix your issue, do not add 10% to the ID of the drain and pat yourself on the back. Again. a SINGLE turbo is perfectly fine with one -10, and they use bearing assemblies 3-4 times the size of the stock N54, and hybrid assemblies. Stock location upgrades have TWO of those. No these drains are not doing anything except draining your wallet. Fact. But hey give Rob your money for something that is doing nothing. He has done a good job convincing people they help...
You may be right Chris, but if you're going to argue the point of RB selling something not necessary for a properly running engine, I could argue your crankcase breather is the same thing. It shouldn't be needed if your pcv system is functioning properly, yet you still sell them. Don't get me wrong, I run your breather myself as insurance since I don't run an external pcv (just an upgraded valve), but I'm just playing the devils advocate.
In my mind, installing your breather cant make the system worse and can only help the system function properly. Same thing for the "high flow" drains. Are they necessary? Probably not, just insurance. There's a lot of people that have kinked their stock lines installing turbos too. Maybe not the experienced or professional mechanics but for backyard or driveway DIYers they might prove useful.
Just my opinion anyway. I'd love to see a video of how much oil drains from the stock housings vs a common larger turbo but I highly doubt that would ever happen.
In my mind, installing your breather cant make the system worse and can only help the system function properly. Same thing for the "high flow" drains. Are they necessary? Probably not, just insurance. There's a lot of people that have kinked their stock lines installing turbos too. Maybe not the experienced or professional mechanics but for backyard or driveway DIYers they might prove useful.
Just my opinion anyway. I'd love to see a video of how much oil drains from the stock housings vs a common larger turbo but I highly doubt that would ever happen.
I had the RB drains on a set of GC lites, now on GC+ and removed them.
The reason is the rubber was not surviving the heat well. Where the clamps go on them the rubber was cracking badly and had hardened. They had cracked through down to the stitch layer and I wasn't sure how much longer they would last before they started leaking. That was after only 1 year.
The stock ones are metal connectors with a good cover and crimp for the rubber center.
The reason is the rubber was not surviving the heat well. Where the clamps go on them the rubber was cracking badly and had hardened. They had cracked through down to the stitch layer and I wasn't sure how much longer they would last before they started leaking. That was after only 1 year.
The stock ones are metal connectors with a good cover and crimp for the rubber center.
I wonder how much it would cost to have some -10 SS lines made with the the same fittings to improve on the RB lines?
Many AN fittings are aluminum, so you could take the type of fittings that RB made and possibly TIG on an aluminum AN fitting, which would then let you just get a double AN female fitted SS hose of good length. The issue I find more likely is getting the space for the AN fitting to work, as the hex part might not have much space to fit, which would then cause the ID of the fitting to have to smaller. I'd estimate that a -4 an 37 degree fitting is about the biggest you could get in there, which would be much smaller than the stock ID drain size.
You'd really want the SS line to be directly attached to the stock like fittings to keep a large ID. That would likely be much harder.
You'd really want the SS line to be directly attached to the stock like fittings to keep a large ID. That would likely be much harder.
I recently had the same. I changed the turbines and tubes just crumbled........ I look from the RB website, these lines have disappeared
