Fundamental PCV systems

fmorelli

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All I can tell you is that I have a 1" circular piece of 50-micron mesh which I placed inside the filter housing, which is approximately 2x the area of the -6AN ID. To your point - no idea what the restriction relative to airflow (e.g. pressure drop across the filter). 50-micron for anyone that cares is about 2 thou - like a human hair or slightly less than a sheet of school paper.

Filippo
 

fmorelli

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I personally would never add anything to a PCV that filters down that small, it's not needed, and its a restriction. Again, here we go. What oil should I run thread under a different name.
*EDIT*
What do you suggest one does to deal with the oiling of the intact tract?

Actually on second thought, reading your response, thanks for taking the time. I'll ask that you and I don't continue this dialog here since your last statement speaks for itself.

Filippo
 
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Kommodore

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Imo filtering out and reclaiming oil only makes sense.

Additionally using a filtering element instead of cyclonic or impact separation is probably the most effective for ensuring that oil vapors don't make it past the can, which has been an annoyance in all the cans I've tried. This is what I am looking at incorporating instead.


The Provent 200 is designed for gasoline or diesel N/A or Turbo applications. 1" fittings for maximum venting. So, even though it incorporates a filter, should not restrict flow too much. An incorporated oil drain allows you to feed scavenged oil back to the pan.

Seems like a good idea for anyone like me, who has been trying to find a way to keep oil vapors out of the intake tract entirely. Even the low vacuum that the rear turbo inlet pulled still pulled oil through catch cans that I had setup previously.
 
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Oct 24, 2016
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*EDIT*
What do you suggest one does to deal with the oiling of the intact tract?

Actually on second thought, reading your response, thanks for taking the time. I'll ask that you and I don't continue this dialog here since your last statement speaks for itself.

Filippo
No desire to continue the dialog. not because there is no merit, but simply because as stated it's akin to an oil thread. Everyone has their own opinion, there are many ways to skin a cat. We built our products around how we feel it should be done, 1,000,000 catch can options exist for internal combustion engines, prob 10 times as many PCV threads online. If you spend enough time reading them, you will prob end up back where you started, confused, and no better off. This is simply going to be another one. Our personal preference is the system we built, we run it on everything, and it works very very well. If we did not believe so we would not have built it. Now people are starting to get into PCV separators/filters for large stationary engines in a thread based around a performance turbocharged gasoline inline 6 engine, the rabbit hole will just go deeper as it always does with PCV threads. At the end, there is usually no resolution, just more confusion. I believe we were clear when we posted the routing guide and said with a couple of changs this is what we believe to be ideal. If that is what we believe is ideal, there is no need to continue further, others will have a different opinion, as evidenced already. So, Rinse repeat, should I run 0W40 Amsoil, or 5W40 Mobil 1....
 
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MattGu40

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Exactly the same setup as mine, same hose size..
Pretty satisfied with the result.
how many in/g of vacuum are you getting at warm idle ?
is there any bad side at having plugged head ports as valve cover wont pressurize anymore with plugged headports and a check valve after the catch can ?

So trying to make sense of my setup.

Feel free to comment on anything here. That said, I'm looking to remove the high-side flapper, install a flapper delete, install a high-side check valve between the VC and the BMS catch can, and install the new relief valve. Benefit of this is that my PCV system is locked and loaded with a safety and no vacuum-related VC or seal issues.

I know it's clear as mud.

Filippo
 

JimboFresh206

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Ok but what about...

Using a vaccum pump lol

The pcv on this car is actually very simple.

You have a low side, and a high side just like on a 2j.

The low side functions in a similar manner to a normal naturally aspirated cars pcv, albeit BMW used ports in the head as a vaccum ref. I think people see the cyclonic system that's built into the VC and really over analyze it.

The high side is JUST A VENT and you want as little resistance as possible as Chris is saying. The low side DOES ALMOST NOTHING once the manifold sees boost as it's check valve or pcv closed (depending on your config). The flapper is only required if you ARENT using a system like this vaccum relief valve because it is what regulates the vaccum in low load conditions, along with the pcv valve itself.

The new Vargas product is great because just like others have done on domestics you can now regulate the amount of vac you pull, which allows you to use things like a vac pump or just check valves if you still want to use the manifold as the vaccum ref.

Something I personally would love to see is a drive system that allows the use of an off the shelf vane style vac pump.

If you guys think these threads have alot of FUD you would have died being around e46f when we were all figuring out decent ways to delete the m54s horrendous CCV setup.

@Chris@VargasTurboTech something else that would be cool to see would be this same relief valve but with an m18 thread, so that it could be installed on the heads front port, that way it's not eating up one of our -10 fittings on the VC :)
 
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Ok but what about...

Using a vaccum pump lol

The pcv on this car is actually very simple.

You have a low side, and a high side just like on a 2j.

The low side functions in a similar manner to a normal naturally aspirated cars pcv, albeit BMW used ports in the head as a vaccum ref. I think people see the cyclonic system that's built into the VC and really over analyze it.

The high side is JUST A VENT and you want as little resistance as possible as Chris is saying. The low side DOES ALMOST NOTHING once the manifold sees boost as it's check valve or pcv closed (depending on your config). The flapper is only required if you ARENT using a system like this vaccum relief valve because it is what regulates the vaccum in low load conditions, along with the pcv valve itself.

The new Vargas product is great because just like others have done on domestics you can now regulate the amount of vac you pull, which allows you to use things like a vac pump or just check valves if you still want to use the manifold as the vaccum ref.

Something I personally would love to see is a drive system that allows the use of an off the shelf vane style vac pump.

If you guys think these threads have alot of FUD you would have died being around e46f when we were all figuring out decent ways to delete the m54s horrendous CCV setup.

@Chris@VargasTurboTech something else that would be cool to see would be this same relief valve but with an m18 thread, so that it could be installed on the heads front port, that way it's not eating up one of our -10 fittings on the VC :)
I love that you get it. It's refreshing, as was said a few times in the other thread, this tends to be over complicated by many people. We designed our catch can systems to be simple, and provide an ideal solution, in an aesthetically pleasing package. The Vaccum Relief just fits into the line-up. As for changing the threads. We designed it to work with our system which uses -10ORB standard, so we most likely will not offer it in a different thread size/pitch.

As for a real vacuum pump, we know an N54 being built that has one installed currently...
 
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JimboFresh206

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Something I've been kicking around lately has been, welding a wastegate downstream of the cats, and then welding a pan evac Venturi to the dump pipe coming from it to draw blowby while under load (high side)

You could signal the WG to open under boost like it normally would, and create a nice resistance free exit to draw decent vaccum, while under load (we don't have this option currently). VTA works but vaccum aids ring seal, and reduces pumping losses pretty drastically.

Every other attempt I've seen on this platform for pan evac was doomed from the get go due to restriction (no vaccum/Venturi effect)

....but if we had a good vac pump option available none of this would be necessary


Vaccum is your friend. Really interested to see more.of the car currently implementing it as it's the only proven solution that I have ever seen...I mean I even have a GZ pump on my acient m30 for this exact reason :)
 

fmorelli

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The high side is JUST A VENT and you want as little resistance as possible
The low side of my system has the 50-micron filter. The high side is a wide open catch can. Did I miss something or mis-state something prior?
The low side DOES ALMOST NOTHING once the manifold sees boost as it's check valve or pcv closed (depending on your config).
It seems the low-side commonly sees more oil collection in the catch can, at least from what I've anecdotally read? I haven't had a low-side installation long enough to compare, though my high side which has been in for about 10k shows little accumulation in the can.

Filippo
 
Oct 24, 2016
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Something I've been kicking around lately has been, welding a wastegate downstream of the cats, and then welding a pan evac Venturi to the dump pipe coming from it to draw blowby while under load (high side)

You could signal the WG to open under boost like it normally would, and create a nice resistance free exit to draw decent vaccum, while under load (we don't have this option currently). VTA works but vaccum aids ring seal, and reduces pumping losses pretty drastically.

Every other attempt I've seen on this platform for pan evac was doomed from the get go due to restriction (no vaccum/Venturi effect)

....but if we had a good vac pump option available none of this would be necessary


Vaccum is your friend. Really interested to see more.of the car currently implementing it as it's the only proven solution that I have ever seen...I mean I even have a GZ pump on my acient m30 for this exact reason :)
 

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JimboFresh206

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The low side of my system has the 50-micron filter. The high side is a wide open catch can. Did I miss something or mis-state something prior?

It seems the low-side commonly sees more oil collection in the catch can, at least from what I've anecdotally read? I haven't had a low-side installation long enough to compare, though my high side which has been in for about 10k shows little accumulation in the can.

Filippo


No I understand the logic on your setup, just the only concern with a filter that small would be crankcase pressure being raised at idle/low load conditions. Sorry wasn't trying to say what you did was wrong, just wanted to clear up the "mysterious" n54 pcv system a bit :)

I really you want as much vaccum as you can pull/the seals will hold WITHOUT returning any blow by to the intake, that's why I have such a hard on for pan evac and vaccum pump setups. Anything else will still introduce oil and moisture tto the intake, we already have to contend with the valve overlap gunking up the valves, so I just want to mitigate as much as possible.
 
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martymil

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Like Chris said leave it free and flowing, Fillippo since you don't want to drill the valve cover you could always get a VTT oil cap, drill and tap it for a relief valve at least it will be where it's needed.
 

Gavin

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Like Chris said leave it free and flowing, Fillippo since you don't want to drill the valve cover you could always get a VTT oil cap, drill and tap it for a relief valve at least it will be where it's needed.
What to do if running a vtt breather already and head ports aren't blocked off yet.this my setup in picture.removing the micron filter then you would get the gasses going back in on lowside correct?if I measure my vacuum now and if its pulling say 22hg then might be normal?
 

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martymil

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Gavin remove the stock flapper, replace it with a check valve or a proper flapper valve.

get a vtt oil cap and tap it for a relief valve or drill and tap your rocker cover otherwise everything else in your diagram is good.
 
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fmorelli

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That would be a genius idea, @martymil, but unfortunately my strut bar is 1/4" over TDC of my oil cap.

Filippo
 

The Convert

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I haven't checked my vacuum in a long time,last time I checked it was 22hg
How are YOU measuring crankcase vacuum? Manifold vacuum should be around 22 at idle. Crankcase should be no more than 12.
 

Gavin

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Gavin remove the stock flapper, replace it with a check valve or a proper flapper valve.

get a vtt oil cap and tap it for a relief valve or drill and tap your rocker cover otherwise everything else in your diagram is good.
Ok,thanks.