Full oem trans cooler delete, parts available? Parts needed?

[typedRew]

I am looking to completely divorce the factory trans cooler from the car and the current kits available do more of a band aid fix as oppose to complete removal.

I have searched every forum post on the topic it seems like since 2008, and where there are pictures available it simply doesn't cover what id like to do.

My goal;

-Remove the stock cooler completely
-Remove the lines completely to the transmission and use a barbed or AN adapter out of the trans itself to proprietary lines to an aftermarket cooler
-----if unable to find adapter into transmission for lines, cut lines at halfway point and flare the ends for a basic hose connection
-Mount cooler behind kidney grilles
-Block off the factory coolant lines at the block itself and remove them completely

For the block offs, is there a common fitting used on manual swapped cars to remove those coolant lines? Everything else seems like a shot in the dark unless it just hasn't been post about.

I know the fittings exist to plug into the factory lines at the front of the car near the IC/chargepipe, but id prefer to not use the lines to the point and remove some clutter.

 

[CAA]

I made this. I live un EU, so buying a trans fitting adapter from the US is a little cost prohibitive due to added shipping and customs fees, so I cut the transmission rubber line at some point in front of where the fan it goes, and put a barbed 13mm/ AN10 adapter. It seems that it makes a very tight seal.

And for the coolant lines, I buyed a csf radiator for MT, so I didn't have to deal with putting caps on leftover coolant lines.

 

[houtan]

I made this. I live un EU, so buying a trans fitting adapter from the US is a little cost prohibitive due to added shipping and customs fees, so I cut the transmission rubber line at some point in front of where the fan it goes, and put a barbed 13mm/ AN10 adapter. It seems that it makes a very tight seal.

And for the coolant lines, I buyed a csf radiator for MT, so I didn't have to deal with putting caps on leftover coolant lines.

When you mounted the csf manual radiator, did you have to buy any factory coolant hoses that a manual transmission car uses? I think you have to but want to confirm.

 

[CAA]

When you mounted the csf manual radiator, did you have to buy any factory coolant hoses that a manual transmission car uses? I think you have to but want to confirm.

I didn't need to buy any coolant hose. Main coolant hoses (from the engine and to the thermostat) are the same on AT as on MT.
AT radiator has two aditional hoses that goes to the bottom of the radiator, to cool the oem heat exchanger.

 

[houtan]

I didn't need to buy any coolant hose. Main coolant hoses (from the engine and to the thermostat) are the same on AT as on MT.
AT radiator has two aditional hoses that goes to the bottom of the radiator, to cool the oem heat exchanger.

Thank you. For some reason I thought the two heat exchanger hoses t’d into the main line. But I know the trans coolant is a separate circuit so that makes sense.

For the new set up,did you add a thermostat? Any pictures of the install?

 

[CAA]

Thank you. For some reason I thought the two heat exchanger hoses t’d into the main line. But I know the trans coolant is a separate circuit so that makes sense.

For the new set up,did you add a thermostat? Any pictures of the install?

Yes, I've put a Mishimoto inline with a 70C tstat

Install is still not finished, but you can get some ideas.

 

[streetpro]

I didn't need to buy any coolant hose. Main coolant hoses (from the engine and to the thermostat) are the same on AT as on MT.
AT radiator has two aditional hoses that goes to the bottom of the radiator, to cool the oem heat exchanger.

This is not correct, there is a plastic water hose running in front of the alu subrame that has one output that you need to block. Heat exchanger had one line from cooler and other from this hose. So you get away for one with CSF MT conversion but you need to block the other, I have used irrc M14 metric bolt with some thread insulation to keep it leak free.
Probably not the most esthetic solution but that was all I had at that time. Some brass end cap or alu welded pipe will be a better approach.

 

[CAA]

This is not correct, there is a plastic water hose running in front of the alu subrame that has one output that you need to block. Heat exchanger had one line from cooler and other from this hose. So you get away for one with CSF MT conversion but you need to block the other, I have used irrc M14 metric bolt with some thread insulation to keep it leak free.
Probably not the most esthetic solution but that was all I had at that time. Some brass end cap or alu welded pipe will be a better approach.

If you see again, the question was if I needed to buy any factory coolant hose for the radiator swap. Therefore, regarding to the hoses that goes directly to the radiator, didn't need to make anything because these are the same on AT as on MT.

You are talking about the heater hose, but is simply to cap it, as you stated. In my case, I used a silicone cap with a worm clamp.

 

[streetpro]

I see your point but there are no two hoses between the AT radiator (as you have stated above) and the heat exchanger, just one. No big deal, just to clarify.
So IOT have it very clean and bullet proof, you need to change the radiator and that plastic subframe hose for MT versions.
Otherwise use some plugs.