Finally going built motor n54

[YOU-RDY]

Hey guys!

Long time lurker but finally decided to post and i feel like im finally able to join in with the big boys! I wanted to ask what EXACT process should i go with for head studs? Ive been all over the forum and everyone has their opinion and advice but i was thinking of either VAC n54 headstud (I dont think any drilling has to be done right?) And m12 for the 4 bolts on the outers, or do i go with full m11 all round? What do i do with the headgasket if i do this? does it fit? would the head fit on? Thats where my confusion is on this. My current power goals are about 550-600rwkw on a single turbo which i think is like 800-850whp and since im in australia that would be like mustang dyno numbers. Currently i just blew my 2nd motor in a year running 400rwkw in australia on custom rebuilt 17ts and the works with everything else, 3" dumps, helix, dual pumps, 7.5inch cooler, lsd inserts, coilovers everything you could do basically before single turbo/built motor.

Ive decided to take a stab and go with some Hench performance rods and pistons from the good old land of red, posted on aliexpress and apparently he claims some people have used his stuff before, the rods in question are the "New QX Beam designed rods for 1200hp" he said theyre from the same place as CP and maxspeedinrods but we all know that song and dance by now but i thought id take a stab as these rods do look neat, A simple youtube search of "hench performance n54" will show you all you need to know.

I was also speaking to a dude who builds these in Russia and he was saying alot of the boys there use the VW Diesel Headbolts/studs The part number is -> 02116 FEBI

Now im also gonna be refreshing all the bolts, lines, 2019 crank hub/friction disk upgrade, valve stem seals, guides, chains, Crank linished, decked, cylinders bored to 84.5mm and honed, motors a mix of 8bolt head/bottom end and i have a 6 bolt motor going in for a run around but ill be stealing the cam trays off of that to slap on the built motor too (Has 79,000 kilometers so like 50k miles?).

I just wanted to ask the pros for some solid advice what to tell my engine builder as not many people do work on these here or at least there isnt much information so i want to make sure im clear on what i want done for headstuds/bolts. So i know to say do m11/m12 on the corners or just leave it as is because as i understand the n54 uses m11 bolts and then 4 m9 outers right?

Thankyou for any and all info you guys give me, i do appreciate it! Sorry if i sound stupid and uninformed i just need someone to walk me through it haha my bad!

edit - changed km to mile conversion haha undershot that!

 

[135i2]

Forget the n54 (as much as I love mine) for your power goals, and buy anything B58, S55 or S58. Tune them and wave at n54s as you blow by.
The money you will spend to get close to your goals will purchase a superior platform with less headaches and more time on the road to enjoy your beast.

If you must go down this road you are welcome to reach out as I have developed two RHD ST setups on my '08 135i (would never do it again). Still tuning my final built motor having pushed 500rwkw on the blown stockie long ago. You will need a super fat wallet as there are no short cuts to a power figure over 450rwkw...at least not with any reliability. Then, there is drive line, fueling, and tuning....etc

 

[OneStunDone]

While I agree with what @135i2 has to say about b58/s55/s58 being the much more superior powerplant, it is much more uncommon for these drivetrains to have a manual, atleast in the North American market(specifically southern ontario, canada).

I'm excited to see another build unfold!

 

[jzx_andy]

Your motor should be great if you keep it at around 450rwkw. Will need to sort out the transmission at some point since you have the auto, right?

 

[Torgus]

Your motor should be great if you keep it at around 450rwkw. Will need to sort out the transmission at some point since you have the auto, right?

Which is roughly 600whp on a dynojet IIRC?

 

[Brule]

450kw on Australia dyno is closer to 750hp on a dynojet.

 

[Torgus]

450kw on Australia dyno is closer to 750hp on a dynojet.

Interesting because that is not how you would normally do the math: https://learnmetrics.com/kw-to-hp-converter/

But as far as dynojet whp around 700-750 does seem to be about the limit of the motor. Plenty fail below this number but the limit seems to be around ~750 dynojet whp.

 

[Brule]

I did a dyno 28psi 10 degrees timing 6466 turbo 473kw (634hp)

Jake spencr dyno 28psi 9 degrees timing 6266 turbo 749hp

Same boost
I had 1 degree more timing, bigger turbo but 125hp less on the dyno.

I know the maths conversatiin isnt matching buy every single turbo n54 in usa makes 750 800hp on 30psi of boost but in Australia 30pso = 650hp on same boost same turbo ect.

 

[jzx_andy]

Interesting because that is not how you would normally do the math: https://learnmetrics.com/kw-to-hp-converter/

But as far as dynojet whp around 700-750 does seem to be about the limit of the motor. Plenty fail below this number but the limit seems to be around ~750 dynojet whp.

Yeah the math does not add up. Most dynos here (Australia) appear to read a bit lower than USA dynos for whatever reason. But what I do mean is that OP's mild built motor would be well matched with a 6266 or similar flowing turbo setup and turned up to ~25-30 psi.

 

[Pot_Pie_35i]

I did a dyno 28psi 10 degrees timing 6466 turbo 473kw (634hp)

Jake spencr dyno 28psi 9 degrees timing 6266 turbo 749hp

Same boost
I had 1 degree more timing, bigger turbo but 125hp less on the dyno.

I know the maths conversatiin isnt matching buy every single turbo n54 in usa makes 750 800hp on 30psi of boost but in Australia 30pso = 650hp on same boost same turbo ect.

I've heard many times AUS dyno's just read lower, but not sure exactly why. There's a handful of reasons in the car for lesser output (ethanol quality, compression, wheel/tire setup etc.) but it's just as likely a dyno-to-dyno discrepancy. So many factors that make different dyno setups show different numbers.

But it's definitely not all ST N54's in the states pushing 750ish, I've heard of a handful in the 550-650 range

 

[ShocknAwe]

I think the rest is just fuel and temperature.

As much as I love the N54 and especially my N53 mutt I'll be swapping to SC V8 when this block goes. If you stay on the conservative side of tuning it'll last. All out power isn't the end all unless you like doing teardowns repeatedly.

 

[martymil]

I think the rest is just fuel and temperature.

As much as I love the N54 and especially my N53 mutt I'll be swapping to SC V8 when this block goes. If you stay on the conservative side of tuning it'll last. All out power isn't the end all unless you like doing teardowns repeatedly.

Couldn't say better myself, very wise words.

Limit the boost to 20psi or just shy of it and what ever it makes, it makes and enjoy it till it lets go.

 

[SLOWESTN54]

Jake spencr dyno 28psi 9 degrees timing 6266 turbo 749hp

That dyno was smoking the good good 100%

 

[ShocknAwe]

Couldn't say better myself, very wise words.

Limit the boost to 20psi or just shy of it and what ever it makes, it makes and enjoy it till it lets go.

I think I'm at 16psi with this N53/low lifts/hydra setup and can barely put the power down. Spinning isn't winning. It's fun, should last

 

[martymil]

I think I'm at 16psi with this N53/low lifts/hydra setup and can barely put the power down. Spinning isn't winning. It's fun, should last

100% n53 head and low lifts is like running stock with 21 psi but a lot less strain on the turbos which will make them last longer.

You got yourself a very reliable setup that should last quite a long time.

 

[Topfueljunkie]

I think I'm at 16psi with this N53/low lifts/hydra setup and can barely put the power down. Spinning isn't winning. It's fun, should last

What kind of power are you at with 16psi?

Are you only spinning on launch or struggling even when rolling down the road at 40+mph?

You have an upgraded diff? What kind of tires?

Thing sounds like a beast!

I'd love this setup for mine and being AWD it'd hook up a lot better but that weaker driveline...... eh.... kinda thinking it's not a good idea even without launching. Shoulda got the RWD version instead.

100% n53 head and low lifts is like running stock with 21 psi but a lot less strain on the turbos which will make them last longer.

You got yourself a very reliable setup that should last quite a long time.

As someone who is considering upgrading turbos (wastegates are bleeding off boost infrequently, 30FF), you've made me pause and consider my choice in modding this car.

I daily it but basically you're saying get the biggest turbo you can if your goal is max power because the larger turbo will allow you to keep boost at or under 20psi, otherwise regularly going over 20psi is where we start seeing engine failure more likely, right?

I often see engine reliability discussed as a certain power level, usually 600-650whp being quoted as the upper limit of a stock engine, but it seems more helpful to think of it in terms of boost like you're saying here.

Still, the idea of skipping the whole N54 journey and jumping straight to a FI V8 or going B58/S55/S58 seems like a better idea, just so much more expensive!

 

[ShocknAwe]

What kind of power are you at with 16psi?

Are you only spinning on launch or struggling even when rolling down the road at 40+mph?

You have an upgraded diff? What kind of tires?

Thing sounds like a beast!

I'd love this setup for mine and being AWD it'd hook up a lot better but that weaker driveline...... eh.... kinda thinking it's not a good idea even without launching. Shoulda got the RWD version instead.


As someone who is considering upgrading turbos (wastegates are bleeding off boost infrequently, 30FF), you've made me pause and consider my choice in modding this car.

I daily it but basically you're saying get the biggest turbo you can if your goal is max power because the larger turbo will allow you to keep boost at or under 20psi, otherwise regularly going over 20psi is where we start seeing engine failure more likely, right?

I often see engine reliability discussed as a certain power level, usually 600-650whp being quoted as the upper limit of a stock engine, but it seems more helpful to think of it in terms of boost like you're saying here.

Still, the idea of skipping the whole N54 journey and jumping straight to a FI V8 or going B58/S55/S58 seems like a better idea, just so much more expensive!

Shop car made 650 at 18 on 93, I'm on same gross setup 8k redline 16 flat with 17 peak, don't believe in unnecessarily dyno testing as it doesn't relate to real world performance and just stressed components. So I guess I don't know? Kinda a don't care sort of thing.

To answer questions otherwise mentioned:

Airflow isn't so simple as big turbo and turn it up. N54 head bottlenecks. The setup I have to maximize this without sacrificing durability is a stock valvetrain N53 head which has been port matched to a custom cast steel turbofold set, everything else is large bore to allow for all the airflow. Schrick low lifts cams to combat low end torque loss. The other option would be a custom ported/machined N54 head which allow you to keep the boysens which are fantastic for heat control. Head jobs are $$$. First time I haven't done work myself and ran me well over $10k, be prepared.

Otherwise: I have first gear limited to 6psi. SIX. Second gear spins if not limited to 12psi. Third is open and the car does fine like this. We did initial testing on 7psi peak and the car was faster to 130 than my FBO+ setup at if I recall 19 peak. As a reminder, 8psi is stock for the N54. I'm on 275/35 square MPS4S. Will be switching to AD09 next set. Have a clutched drexler differential with custom ramps, and motorsport rear dampers from ohlins.

As far as failures: too much of anything is a recipe for failure, I'm sure mine will grenade eventually, after which I will swap to SC V8, LS3 or S65 not sure yet.

 

[martymil]

As someone who is considering upgrading turbos (wastegates are bleeding off boost infrequently, 30FF), you've made me pause and consider my choice in modding this car.

I daily it but basically you're saying get the biggest turbo you can if your goal is max power because the larger turbo will allow you to keep boost at or under 20psi, otherwise regularly going over 20psi is where we start seeing engine failure more likely, right?

I often see engine reliability discussed as a certain power level, usually 600-650whp being quoted as the upper limit of a stock engine, but it seems more helpful to think of it in terms of boost like you're saying here.

Still, the idea of skipping the whole N54 journey and jumping straight to a FI V8 or going B58/S55/S58 seems like a better idea, just so much more expensive!

If you want turbos to last keep the WGDC under 60%, on stock cams I would not run more than 20psi
with upgraded turbos or 17psi on stock ones.

Do yourself a favour and bite the bullet and get a b58/s55/s58 much more reliable and stronger platforms
which will save you money in the long run and give you more bigger reliable power than any n54 can cope with.

If your a die hard E platform enthusiast like some of us, be prepared to spend on repairs.

 

[rev210]

I think I'm at 16psi with this N53/low lifts/hydra setup and can barely put the power down. Spinning isn't winning. It's fun, should last

Yep. Most folk fall into the pursuit of power not faster . First mod on the journey to go faster (and enjoy every bit of power) is tyres. Followed by mods that assist tyres to perform - suspension/geometry.
Here's a tip for the tune/tuning side ;
Lop off the power and torque to a level you can 'stick down' easy first , then wind it up as you dial in driving technique. Goes for boost/power at the new track or with a new setup. People get this wrong and it's the fastest way to making fast times.