Dual Catch Can - Why you want to do it

[Rob@RBTurbo]

I think you should just go dry sump setup and then you'll never have any more cc issues or potential turbo oil drain issues. Plus, I'd love to see/own a dry sump N54.

Or 3 trains...
3) Spend thousands of dollars developing a system no one will ever buy as it will cost 5x more in parts than anyone would ever want to spend. "Found a $18 vac pump on Alibaba, can we make this one work?" will be the next 3 years of convos.

 

[The Convert]

Or 3 trains...
3) Spend thousands of dollars developing a system no one will ever buy as it will cost 5x more in parts than anyone would ever want to spend. "Found a $18 vac pump on Alibaba, can we make this one work?" will be the next 3 years of convos.

I want a dry sump setup...I would be willing to spend up to...$1500 or so for a pan, pump, and tank. I think we could do it. A simple little 3 stage might still price me out though

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

I want a dry sump setup...I would be willing to spend up to...$1500 or so for a pan, pump, and tank. I think we could do it. A simple little 3 stage might still price me out though

When said and done 99.99% who say they'd be in would be out... especially when they see it really isn't going to accomplish much vs. the dollars spent. For those are going absolute balls to the wall, with deep pockets to back it up, are going to be the only who'd push forward... and that is a very dead breed with the N54. Which brings us back to just keeping it simple.

 

[NoQuarter]

This is the low side catch can results.

The high side I didn't bother, the dip stick barely registered anything

 

[The Convert]

This is the low side catch can results.

The high side I didn't bother, the dip stick barely registered anything
View attachment 12808

How many miles to accumulate that much?

 

[Jeffman]

I can go ~600 miles on low side catch can; ~1000 miles on high side before emptying.

 

[Jizzvee]

If you fancy no PCV system and a VTA arrangement that is fairly limited, give it a shot. Once you realize you are tired of the smell and oil mess and most likely worse CC pressure and the subsequent issues it brings with it, we'd suggest just going a route that has already been proven to work damn well for years now (ie. retain OEM like PCV functionality, or better yet externalize it along with the bulletproofing/head plugs). This area of the N54 seems to constantly being over thought, when a simple/cheap/functional solution is and has been available for such a long time now. Just keep it simple and get it done the right way the first time and move on to another project.

Rob

To add to this haha, im replacing my valve cover through fcp and it’s pretty pricey, that aside I want to Plug my ports and do an external setup so I don’t smell fumes and not vent to atmosphere. I’m almost at the cost I can get a billet cover and not worry about the cover cracking. Since this new cover doesn’t have the pcv system how do I make it external? And would I need to run dual cans? The valve cover is a M18 performance. Has 2 10an fittings just confused how to run my lines. Haven’t ordered yet but wanted to run dual radium catch cans for the the external pcv system but again this new cover doesn’t have the same internal passages for a dual setup or am I stupid?

 

[marseille]

BMS has high and low side kits for the stock valve cover

https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/rb-or-vtt-pcv-valve.5478/#post-78965

 

[Jizzvee]

BMS has high and low side kits for the stock valve cover

https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/threads/rb-or-vtt-pcv-valve.5478/#post-78965

I don’t want a stock valve cover. Nor do I want bms cans. That has nothing to do with my post.

 

[marseille]

I don’t want a stock valve cover. Nor do I want bms cans. That has nothing to do with my post.

I read the first part of what you wrote:

" im replacing my valve cover through fcp and it’s pretty pricey, that aside I want to Plug my ports and do an external setup so I don’t smell fumes and not vent to atmosphere."

Since FCPEuro doesn't sell an aftermarket valve cover, I assumed you need a solution that works with the stock valve cover and doesn't VTA. The above recommendation does that.

Post a pic of your M18 valve cover and Radium OCC solution once installed.

 

[iitsD]

Check this post out with diagrams

Ad: - Product Release - VTT Billet Vacuum Relief Valve

Right, and as I had asked in my very first post, for people without the VTT valve cover, we would need to run a T or a Y as there would be a one way check valve AND this thing. Good lord. No. This would get its own dedicated hole in the VC. It is completely separate from the rest of the system...

bmw.spoolstreet.com

 

[Jizzvee]

Check this post out with diagrams

Ad: - Product Release - VTT Billet Vacuum Relief Valve

Right, and as I had asked in my very first post, for people without the VTT valve cover, we would need to run a T or a Y as there would be a one way check valve AND this thing. Good lord. No. This would get its own dedicated hole in the VC. It is completely separate from the rest of the system...

bmw.spoolstreet.com

thank you!!!!! That is exactly what I was wanting!!!

 

[Trowy88]

Hey guys, so after much stuffing around installing my external PCV and dual catch can setup I was getting mixture control codes and also this 2D2E “Throttle-valve Angle - intake-manifold vacuum, correlation.” Code.

Now I took advice from a member here (sorry I forget who) and reinstalled the flapper valve as I deleted it as I followed a “how to” which didn’t mention that you 100% need the flapper for proper operation.

I was getting a huge delay when pressing the accelerator pedal from a stop but would drive fine at WOT, and the revs would go up and down slightly when at a cruising speed or with cruise control on without touching the accelerator pedal.

Anyway after joining the flapper back in line where it normally goes and joining it to my AN-10 line which was a pain in the arse, I now don’t get the mixture control codes but I am still getting the 2D2E Throttle valve Angle, intake manifold vacuum correlation code.
The car now takes off from a stop without as much hesitation and cruises fine and wot pulls hard but doesn’t reach full boost It’s off by a couple of psi. I now for the first time am getting 30FF boost leak code.

Can anyone help me out what may be causing this 2D2E code?

I HAD also joined a tee fitting off the fuel tank vent line that attaches to the side of the throttle body, to run to my BOVs. I’m fairly sure there are
no leaks from doing this and I’ve checked the OHMS resistance of the vent valve to make sure it is functioning properly and it is good, so I’m lost as to wtf is causing this fault!

I decided to remove the tee fitting and run new vac lines from the stock nipple on the manifold

I have been told to return my pcv side line to front turbo inlet instead of the intake manifold but before I cut more of my AN10 braided stainless hoses I thought I’d ask if that sounds like a solution or not?

I’ve googled the shit out of this and read numerous threads and tried every suggestion however no dice.


Any help appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Trowy88]

Top is was my initial setup But I’ve now installed the flapper on the out of the catch can before returning to rear turbo inlet.
the bottom photo is what was suggested to now try.

 

[Trowy88]

Really hope someone can help me out here

 

[Snertz]

@Trowy88 on the low side line from PCV delete fitting to throttle body, you're running a normal check valve correct?

If so, it's likely allowing too high a volume of air to be drawn into the manifold, especially if it's all -10 line. The weird behavior you're seeing in off boost situations makes sense since this is basically a big uncontrolled post TB leak. If you look at the stock PCV the orifice is quite small. You could either step the line size down accordingly, or swap the check valve for Toyota PN 12204-46020 - small end towards the manifold. The Toyota valve is the same used in a few aftermarket N54 PCV options, it'll regulate the amount drawn into the intake manifold.

 

[Trowy88]

@Trowy88 on the low side line from PCV delete fitting to throttle body, you're running a normal check valve correct?

If so, it's likely allowing too high a volume of air to be drawn into the manifold, especially if it's all -10 line. The weird behavior you're seeing in off boost situations makes sense since this is basically a big uncontrolled post TB leak. If you look at the stock PCV the orifice is quite small. You could either step the line size down accordingly, or swap the check valve for Toyota PN 12204-46020 - small end towards the manifold. The Toyota valve is the same used in a few aftermarket N54 PCV options, it'll regulate the amount drawn into the intake manifold.

hi,

thanks for the reply.

yes that’s correct I’m using a AN10 check valve not a proper PCV, I simply followed a thread on here and that’s how they did it however they were only using AN6 size hose so perhaps that size is enough to restrict the flow to an acceptable amount?

so you think returning to the intake manifold isn’t the issue? I’ve been told to remove that and to return to the front turbo inlet pipe with no check valve at all. What are your thoughts on this? I didn’t want to go cutting the lines and capping the manifold etc if I end up with the same issue.

so you think by installing a Toyota pcv valve instead of my “normal”check valve that will fix my issues?

do you know the dimensions of that PCV valve? I just looked at them and don’t know how I would join my AN10 braided stainless hose to it. Do you have any thoughts?

on a seperate note I originally deleted the flapper on the other side at the same time then when Ihad all these codes etc I was advised to reinstall the flapper as it is 100% vital for the same reasons you mentioned about the need for the Toyota valve over the simple check valve. after reinstalling the flapper the only thing that changes was the mixture control 2 codes went away but the 2D2E code remained and then for the first time ever I got 30FF when doing some logs.

thanks heaps for your help mate.

if Replacing the check valve With the Toyota pcv valve will 100% fix my issues I will be sooooo happy, I just would need to figure out how to join it to my line.

cheers,
Daniel

 

[Cruizinmax]

hi,

thanks for the reply.

yes that’s correct I’m using a AN10 check valve not a proper PCV, I simply followed a thread on here and that’s how they did it however they were only using AN6 size hose so perhaps that size is enough to restrict the flow to an acceptable amount?

so you think returning to the intake manifold isn’t the issue? I’ve been told to remove that and to return to the front turbo inlet pipe with no check valve at all. What are your thoughts on this? I didn’t want to go cutting the lines and capping the manifold etc if I end up with the same issue.

so you think by installing a Toyota pcv valve instead of my “normal”check valve that will fix my issues?

do you know the dimensions of that PCV valve? I just looked at them and don’t know how I would join my AN10 braided stainless hose to it. Do you have any thoughts?

on a seperate note I originally deleted the flapper on the other side at the same time then when Ihad all these codes etc I was advised to reinstall the flapper as it is 100% vital for the same reasons you mentioned about the need for the Toyota valve over the simple check valve. after reinstalling the flapper the only thing that changes was the mixture control 2 codes went away but the 2D2E code remained and then for the first time ever I got 30FF when doing some logs.

thanks heaps for your help mate.

if Replacing the check valve With the Toyota pcv valve will 100% fix my issues I will be sooooo happy, I just would need to figure out how to join it to my line.

cheers,
Daniel

That definitely is the issue with your current arrangement. Keep in mind there are other options for adding a PCV valve besides the Toyota solution. Here is one from Radium. http://www.radiumauto.com/10AN-ORB-PCV-Valves-P1155.aspx

 

[Trowy88]

That definitely is the issue with your current arrangement. Keep in mind there are other options for adding a PCV valve besides the Toyota solution. Here is one from Radium. http://www.radiumauto.com/10AN-ORB-PCV-Valves-P1155.aspx

thanks heaps for your reply

that radium one would be perfect but I’m in Australia so shipping will take ages and I want this sorted ASAP. I wonder if there is a similar option with AN fittings on either end.

can you tell me I’m guessing all PCV valves are different in the amount of pressure they open etc?? So not all are suited for the N54? Or are all pcv the same?

so all I need to do is replace my check valve that is on the out of my catch can on the line returning to my intake manifold and this will sort all of my issues?

is it possible that my cheap turbosmart kompact type looking BOVs are the issue? I think I’ll try and replace them with my stock BPVs today and see if that makes any difference. I’ve noticed when I’m driving and come off the throttle the BOVs go off a second or so apart from each other so I here the sound Twice. I also notice that when on freeway doing 110-120km/hr that they just keep going off like I’m on and off the throttle but I’m not.
Would that be because of the boost leak?

can you explain to me what actually causes the boost leak by not having a pcv and just a check valve? Are you sure it’s just the one issue or do I have more than one problem?

thanks heaps

 

[Trowy88]

I also deleted my vacuum canisters and just run the return from the boost solenoids to the brake booster line which I’ve also deleted the stock hardline that crosses over the engine (I’m RHD) I replaced with reinforced fuel line 3/8” I think and reused the stock fittings but removed the double tee fittings for the vac cans and just have a single tee to return them to the main line.

I may reinstall one of the cans as well and see if that makes any difference