Car died while driving. Won't start back up..

[Kalv]

Hi guys, I drive a 2009 BMW e92 335i single turbo 6MT, custom tuned on 20psi pump gas.

Car has actually been running amazing for the last year on single turbo really no issues, and I also daily it.

Was driving home two days ago on the highway then all of a sudden the car went into limp mode and then shut off. I had a battery light so I thought that could've been it, so I tried jumping the car and no luck. I towed it home, replaced a broken fuse and the master relay (since I got codes for the DME : Master relay). Still no luck with the car.. Now I got this code for the crankshaft synchronization and a few people I reached out too said that my timing could've jumped and I might need to retime it and hope I didn't spin my crank hub. I am a loss for words since this happened so random and the car was legit running fine for so long.. Attached is the codes I was getting in between trying to start the car. If any of you have some advice to give me that I can start working on my car and figuring out what's wrong with it I would gladly take it. I've done everything on my car myself so I'm wondering how big of a project this might be as well.

 

[NoQuarter]

You can't trust anything with voltage that low. Get it charged up and take it from there.

 

[doublespaces]

So ground straps were good from what I saw.. I decided to try swapping and cleaning vanoss it didn't do much. After I put my old vanoss solenoids in, I went to get the the car into accessory mode to get a log, it seems my fuel pressure was around 74ish psi. Here is the log.

Also it's weird now because I cleared codes and I'm legit stuck with these 3 codes. It doesn't seem like I have that crankshaft inlet : synchronization code anymore. I was going to pull my spark plugs out and use a borescope to check for piston damage incase I did jump timing (from what others and tuners are saying to me). Debating if I should even pull the VC to check timing, but it's weird because I felt like if I tried cranking it I would've gotten that crankshaft code again. Or who knows hopefully this issue has nothing to do with timing lmao. Seems a little electric now, my voltage is about 11.4V, I replaced my alternator a year ago, battery was replaced about 3 years ago as well. I believe voltage should be 12V without the car on correct?



Log:

datazap.me | Kalv | Test

datazap.me

View attachment 56690

When you upload your log click spoolstreet instead of email or datazap or whatever. Need to connect your tablet to wifi instead of transferring the files via cable.

 

[Kalv]

You can't trust anything with voltage that low. Get it charged up and take it from there.

Will do. I'll charge it over night and see what happens next.

When you upload your log click spoolstreet instead of email or datazap or whatever. Need to connect your tablet to wifi instead of transferring the files via cable.

When I upload off MHD, I actually go to datazap website to upload the .csv log or whatever its called then I usually just get the datazap link log and send it out as a url. Does uploading this way (by clicking spoolstreet) make it easier to view? Were you able to view the log at all?

 

[Torgus]

If your battery is reading under 12v you should probably just replace it. Unless it was sitting for some time or there is a good reason why it is reading so low(you've been cranking the shit out of it and it has no way to charge). Low voltage can cause all sorts of weird problems and a healthy battery will not sit below 12v DC. Batteries are cheap all things considered. If it is more than 4 years old I would just replace. Even if you charge the old battery and get it back up above 12v who says it will stay there or what 'damage' has been done to it. Just my thoughts.