BOV Setup for your N54

Oct 24, 2016
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Seem people are still struggling with how things work. The heavier the spring the MORE delayed the BOV response is. The vacuum has to pull against the spring to open it. Lighter spring = faster response, and a safety net for on throttle surge by opening, and venting boost waves created by pressure differential. There are zero downsides to going with a lighter spring unless having the BOV open at idle bothers you that much.

Chris
 

doublespaces

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Seem people are still struggling with how things work. The heavier the spring the MORE delayed the BOV response is. The vacuum has to pull against the spring to open it. Lighter spring = faster response, and a safety net for on throttle surge by opening, and venting boost waves created by pressure differential. There are zero downsides to going with a lighter spring unless having the BOV open at idle bothers you that much.

Chris

For anyone actually worried about the bov being open:

30221


Recirculate or put a filter on the end. Once again the solution isn't a stiffer spring.
 

Rob09msport

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Seem people are still struggling with how things work. The heavier the spring the MORE delayed the BOV response is. The vacuum has to pull against the spring to open it. Lighter spring = faster response, and a safety net for on throttle surge by opening, and venting boost waves created by pressure differential. There are zero downsides to going with a lighter spring unless having the BOV open at idle bothers you that much.

Chris
Correct to prevent boost spike or flutter but we are talking about engine response which I was saying the quarter inch line would help more. So when someone says engine response that is very diff from bov response and if the bov is open and you floor the car the engine will be sucking air correct so that would pull air and have vac on the top of the bov, this coupled with turbos that were still spinning and were venting so have positive pressure would still pushing on the bottom of the bov and venting boost then as the spring overcomes the vac on top and boost on bottom it would create a surge in power and airflow as the boost now enters the manifold. I ask questions not cause lack of knowledge or understanding but because theirs always someone smarter so being condescending isnt wise especially when you misunderstood and made a general statement that isnt accurate. Lighter isnt always better it's a goldilocks situations. I really do genuinely like you but sometimes you need to hop off the horse usually it's when a competing product is better but in this case it's because people hypothesized that the Christian gospel wasnt accurate , maybe I'm on a bad mood but if you dont want to repeat or explain yourself write a book dont post on a forum. I never spoke more than 3 to 4lbs more than I'm targeting if that breaks my turbo than im glad to get it off my car as far as the pressure wave in throttle issue just saying.
 

doublespaces

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if the bov is open and you floor the car the engine will be sucking air correct

If you mean unfiltered air this entirely depends on how fast your turbo is currently spinning and what the engine RPM is, but I'll entertain the concept. I've thought about this myself actually.

so that would pull air and have vac on the top of the bov

I would wager a 6 psi spring can close the bov plunger faster than your foot can make the pedal go WOT not accounting for throttle blade reaction time. The plunger begins the process of closing the moment the throttle blade is open far enough for the manifold vacuum to fall below 6 psi. At low engine RPM, who knows where that is? For unfiltered air to be pulled in from the engine bay at part throttle, you'd need to compare this at an engine RPM that is relevant, otherwise we are just speculating. Time to dig up a log with throttle position perhaps?

this coupled with turbos that were still spinning and were venting so have positive pressure would still pushing on the bottom of the bov

The boost is an insignificant amount of force in the scenario you are describing, which is a situation when you 'floor the car' and the bov is still open. If you feel there is a few pounds of boost being made during this period of time (measured in miliseconds?) that boost is also entering the manifold and therefore applying boost to the top of the bov pressing it downward just as hard. If this was not occurring, then there would not be a notable amount of pressure building against the bov plunger in the first place because you can't build positive pressure with nothingness on one side.

and venting boost then as the spring overcomes the vac on top and boost on bottom

This wouldn't actually happen and if there was a very small differential in pressure, it would likely be very small. If you had a 1-2 psi pressure differential, you take a 6-8 psi spring, subtract 1-2 psi and you've got a 4-7 psi worth of spring force acting against no other force than friction. Hell, we can even throw gravity and momentum into the formula here if we wanted.

Go out and squeeze a pre-compressed, 6 psi spring with your fingers and you'll get an idea of how quickly the bov snaps shut. Remember, this small amount of time is the maximum potential 'delay' in response you're referring to, I'd guess we're talking miliseconds. Fractions of a second.

On the other hand, you are facing potential surge and premature turbine wear.

I never spoke more than 3 to 4lbs more than I'm targeting if that breaks my turbo

Pressure spikes over your target are not the cause of surge we should be concerned about. You should be concerned about situations when the shaft speed of the turbo is overcome by opposing pressure forces which cause a reversal in shaft rotation. A great way to make that happen is to have a 150k RPM turbine spinning against a closed throttle blade and blow off valve with nowhere else for the air pressure to go except backwards out the intake filter..
 
Oct 24, 2016
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Side note: the compressor goes into aerodynamic stall, but the shaft doesn't actually rotate backwards. That would really be an extreme case. If it were instrumented and steady state (think turbine engine instead of turbo), we could induce surge by adding air pressure to the compressor outlet until it spills over to the inlet side. We'd know it was surging from the sound (unique and bad) or just from watching high speed pressure data on the compressor outlet side. It isn't subtle.... steady... slowly increase with your inbleed air.... increasing.... tiny bit of noise.... BAM Pressure drops as close to instantaneously as possible, usually will try to recover, and repeat and a pretty high frequency. This is a pic of the VERY FIRST TRACE of surge. Baby surge. Infant surge. When it's bad, it's WAY WORSE than this pic shows. We were sneaking up on surge in this pic with the goal of "don't blow up this one of a kind motor in a multi-million dollar test cell".

IMG_7097.jpg

It's actually a lot of fun, but your eyes get bleary and when you shout "SURGE!!!" it's all assholes and elbows with your team trying to pull a several hundred thousand dollar motor out of surge. The actual surge line depends on temperature, altitude, humidity, load, etc. In a car add RPM to that for extra fun. This is why you want to keep your aftermarket turbos running aftermarket boost and aftermarket parts as far away from that as possible, and an easy, cheap, simple to implement way is to put the right spring in (ahem.... black for Tial, orange for Turbosmart), and run a dedicated line.

I'll keep saying this until I'm blue in the face. Now, a couple caveats.

1: If you run a stiffer spring you'll vent later in the off-throttle situation, and less air will vent before the valve closes. The BOV will do a worse job resultantly. The BOV will be less responsive.
2: If you have huge laggy turbos, this may make you think you're better off, as you're not waiting (as many) weeks for them to build boost back up. This is a good indicator you may have bit off more turbo that you have a palate for with respect to responsiveness. It'll help the situation, with respect to lag, but not the situation with surge. Good news is some of the dyno queen turbos aren't going to surge any time soon as you'll have moved the map (i.e. engine load/rpm) long past where they'd surge because, well, they're so damned slow to actually get up to speed. If you're a highway roll monster with NLS, disregard, you chose your poison, run it! Daily driver? Ugh. Pass.
3: I won't speak for the other guys, but if you run our turbos, please run the correct damned spring. Especially the GC family is very responsive, enjoy that, run a lighter spring like we say, get some good longevity out of them, have fun not waiting months for your turbos to make torque when you're just trying to pass some slow-poke in a minivan.


Correct to prevent boost spike or flutter but we are talking about engine response which I was saying the quarter inch line would help more. So when someone says engine response that is very diff from bov response and if the bov is open and you floor the car the engine will be sucking air correct so that would pull air and have vac on the top of the bov, this coupled with turbos that were still spinning and were venting so have positive pressure would still pushing on the bottom of the bov and venting boost then as the spring overcomes the vac on top and boost on bottom it would create a surge in power and airflow as the boost now enters the manifold. I ask questions not cause lack of knowledge or understanding but because theirs always someone smarter so being condescending isnt wise especially when you misunderstood and made a general statement that isnt accurate. Lighter isnt always better it's a goldilocks situations. I really do genuinely like you but sometimes you need to hop off the horse usually it's when a competing product is better but in this case it's because people hypothesized that the Christian gospel wasnt accurate , maybe I'm on a bad mood but if you dont want to repeat or explain yourself write a book dont post on a forum. I never spoke more than 3 to 4lbs more than I'm targeting if that breaks my turbo than im glad to get it off my car as far as the pressure wave in throttle issue just saying.

1: If you floor the car, the first thing that happens before the witch doctors conjure their boost spell, is throttle opens all the way. This equalizes charge pipe and manifold pressure and..... you gets zee bov to close comrade! No problems!
2: Sorry you read that post as condescending. It's more bemused. This is why I write with funny accents from time to time. I'm guessing you took your cranky pills. I am willing to hug it out, but any more than 3 ass pats... things will get weird.
3: The rest of your post was some solid griping from you, which IIRC, is fairly rare. I appreciate that both high horse and christian gospel were both used as criticisms lol. Solid. That said...it's just BOV's, worst case if you don't get it or are getting frustrated, just shoot me an email with what your setup is (doesn't even have to be vargas turbos!) and ask me what spring to use. I'll point you in the right direction and all will be well. If you don't like it, you're out $20 or whatever a spring costs and you learned to never trust Chris@VTT again. I have an ex-wife that would have gladly paid $20 to write me off all those years ago. xoxo

Chris
 
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doublespaces

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Side note: the compressor goes into aerodynamic stall, but the shaft doesn't actually rotate backwards.

Yeah that is a misrepresentation on my part. The blades would lose traction on the air which would then start flowing in the reverse direction momentarily, not the compressor itself.

Here is a pretty good read. It explains several points discussed here and it also says the second worst form of surge is closed throttle surge without venting.

 

General.Massacre

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Ive just found and read this entire thread, and was a learning curve.
Ive just replaced a Q BOV with another Q BOV, due tot he fact that for some reason the first one if i used the Q BOV spring supplied, the BOV was closed, and wouldnt open, with the BOV off the car, i couldnt open it with my hands, not even against the ground, with both thumbs pushing down, but, if i did a bush mechanic job and joined both my yellow Forge DV springs with Zip Ties (yes i know i know...), then the piston will be open on idle and work correctly.
I bought a second Q BOV (not original Tial, i apologise to the fanatics and anti-chinese parts people), i havent opened the Valve to check the spring, but i can push the piston open with one thumb, not easily, but with force it opens. adding a vac line to the vac port and do the suck test, i open the piston no problem.

I opened the first BOV, removed the bush mechanic job i did, thank fuck, and replaced them with the spare unpainted spring i got with the new Q BOV, and low and behold, same result, i couldnt open the piston for all the money in the world.
Safe to say the BOV was the problem, and im not sure why.

New BOV is working a treat, it is open 3/4 of the way on idle. and i have no issue with it.

One question, is that when i slightly come off the throttle for day to day menial driving, and feather the gas pedal, i can hear the BOV is open slightly due to the obvious escaping air noise. can i assume this is normal?

I still have the other Charge Pipe with the DV fittings, and would like to test my Forge DV's vs the Tial BOV.
I have the Intake manifold ported with a larger nipple, however, my previous mechanic did an absolute ass job of it, and tapped it upright, so the nipple was facing down, and near touching the Throttle Body vacuum line. to counter this, he just cut the nipple short, and put a piece of Brake hose and zip tied that mess.

So ill be blocking that off soonish, and getting a new port tapped on the front side of the manifold by runners 1 & 2. as its closer to my BOV.

Thanks for all the references and testing and scientific discussions here. appreciated.
 

doublespaces

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One question, is that when i slightly come off the throttle for day to day menial driving, and feather the gas pedal, i can hear the BOV is open slightly due to the obvious escaping air noise. can i assume this is normal?

There are two possibilities here in my mind. Your turbos are not spinning fast enough to create enough positive pressure beyond the throttle blade creating a vacuum in the manifold greater than 8 psi or whatever your bov spring is and this is opening your bov. I don't believe this is the case as what you describe happens to me also.

The other case is that your compressor is hovering at the surge line. With just the right modulation, one could probably cause this to occur to some degree no matter which spring you choose and is part of my argument as most people size their spring based on WOT or not, and as you know we don't always race everywhere. Part throttle and particularly immediately after an off throttle moment air often begins to escape back out of the turbo because the turbo is kissing the surge line. This creates a hissing noise that can sound like a bov pshhh. Some people might report it as a double blow off(sounds fun right?).

I'm not an engineer who specializes in this stuff, but this is my understanding and it is the most common form of surge based on what I've read. Since this is a fairly tame event, the amount of actual stress is likely minimal but your mileage may vary depending on the fragility of your turbos I suspect. A stiff spring or insufficiently sized vacuum line can make this worse and the sound of that air escaping might be reported as squeaking, chirping and choofing sounds. Imagine air flowing backwards over a compressor blade spinning at very high rpm. Some interesting frequencies are bound to be genersted. This often coincides with your bov sounding or starts right beforehand.

Someone can feel free to correct me. When thinking about a high pressure, low airflow situation, it isn't tough to believe some air might begin leaking past the blades of the compressor at a certain threshold.

What I do know is that the sound is clearly coming from my passenger side, which is where my 6266 single turbo and intake cone are. My bov like most people is on the driver side and it is easy to differentiate when the windows are cracked.
 

General.Massacre

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Thanks for the response doublespaces.

That chirping noise you describe, i get a chirping noise to some extent on gearchange mainly, and has been present ever since i fitted the new TD04L-16T turbos along with the 2" inlets.
The chirping noise is usually twice everytime i change gears mainly at low load daily driving, specially in D/S mode. i assume this is due to the larger turbos and larger Inlets trait, but now that you mentioned the symptom. im not too sure. hope im not causing any damage.
 

Rob09msport

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@doublespaces if you are full boost coming Into a long sweeper or a tight drift either case is fine , you are making 20 psi and you make a correction and feather throttle, the blade shuts then you are already full on throttle again instantly now you still have let's be optimistic 10lb flowing even though it was only supposed to be a half sec vent , so at this point the engine had a chance to make .8 rev at 6000 rpm so it easily could clear at least 1liter of air from the intake so now you have the bov trying to shut with turbos on high wgdc trying to smash 20psi so they are somewhere between 10psi and 20psi and the spring has to overcome this pressure.
Also in response to foot speed the issue is the bov is reactive not proactive so no matter how slow it fast my foot is the bov is in reaction to the throttle blade that is dme controlled and will never act at the same time. Also a perfect world and tune has no throttle closure but we have all seen it on logs for whatever reason be it tcm, over boost, or whatever other possible reasons it happens and I don't want my car to buck when that happens. Maybe I am completely wrong but I think I presented a valid situation.
 

doublespaces

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@doublespaces if you are full boost coming Into a long sweeper or a tight drift either case is fine , you are making 20 psi and you make a correction and feather throttle, the blade shuts then you are already full on throttle again instantly now you still have let's be optimistic 10lb flowing even though it was only supposed to be a half sec vent , so at this point the engine had a chance to make .8 rev at 6000 rpm so it easily could clear at least 1liter of air from the intake so now you have the bov trying to shut with turbos on high wgdc trying to smash 20psi so they are somewhere between 10psi and 20psi and the spring has to overcome this pressure.

Estimating air consumption in one liter of air at sea level on a NA engine, I could follow you. One liter of air at a variable boost pressure, you'd need a MAP/MAF and some really boring tables generated by calcs that I can't do (on or off a forum) to make that meaningful IMO.

Also in response to foot speed the issue is the bov is reactive not proactive so no matter how slow it fast my foot is the bov is in reaction to the throttle blade that is dme controlled and will never act at the same time. Also a perfect world and tune has no throttle closure but we have all seen it on logs for whatever reason be it tcm, over boost, or whatever other possible reasons it happens and I don't want my car to buck when that happens. Maybe I am completely wrong but I think I presented a valid situation.

I did mention it was not including throttle blade response so I accounted for that. I was just trying to give an idea of the briefness of the delay you're speaking about. When boost is purged frequently, I do see the downside presented with that scenario as you have to build up boost again. As Chris mentioned however, if responsiveness is what you need, then a faster spooling turbo is more likely in your cards. Although, I am beginning to think this isn't the problem you're referring to.

You did mention something about a 'jerk' or 'bucking' when you get back on the throttle? The thread I linked you to states that what you are describing occurs because your bov is shutting too soon or not venting enough in general:

Compressor surge in modern cars can have the potential to cause drivability issues such as jerking or “bucking” during a partial throttle lift, most commonly affected cars are late-model Mitsubishi EVOs. Whilst the factory valve is designed to eliminate this issue, it also prevents higher boost pressures being used and doesn’t offer the maximum possible throttle response, opening the door for a well designed aftermarket diverter valve.

So as you theorized previously, this isn't a matter of the bov being open which allows the compressor to build up RPM and momentum by free-spinning and then delivers an unnatural amount of boost when you press the pedal causing a jerk or buck.

This is a matter of your charge pipe not fully de-pressurizing and a spike of boost is already available because your intake tract is probably still under boost before you get back on the pedal.

EDIT: Okay, so it looks like you're suggesting a light spring causes the jerk and not the other way around? I have not experienced that before. Is this something you noticed?
 

doublespaces

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That chirping noise you describe, i get a chirping noise to some extent on gearchange mainly, and has been present ever since i fitted the new TD04L-16T turbos along with the 2" inlets.
The chirping noise is usually twice everytime i change gears mainly at low load daily driving, specially in D/S mode. i assume this is due to the larger turbos and larger Inlets trait, but now that you mentioned the symptom. im not too sure. hope im not causing any damage.

Well, lets think about this out loud for a moment; how do you suppose that inlets make a louder chirp? In my opinion if it was the bov making this sound, you'd think it would be outlets which could affect the sound of outbound airflow if anything at all. On the other hand, the sound of air reversing direction, getting chopped up by compressor blades, back into the inlet and out the air filter would absolutely be altered by a larger inlet made of a different material. This combined with your new turbos having different wheel sizes and material make a compelling case the sound is actually being emitted from the intake cone and not the BOV.

This isn't to say that your bov isn't making any noise, but I've heard 32+ PSI coming out of a bov without a noticable chirp or squeak coming from that area, just a blast of air gushing out. This is while using the same blow off valve and engine. Also, you should consider our drive by wire throttle blade plays a role in rev matching and will blip by itself which impacts your manifold pressures.

Going out on a limb, the engine might even be doing this blip intentionally to pop the valve open in a partial throttle scenario where it detects surge or believes the surge line has been reached, who knows. If so, it would explain the blip immediately after you hear air surging out. Unlike some later N55's, the N54 came with a pneumatic air bypass from the factory. You'd think they would have thought about what to do when surge is detected due to a sticky diverter valve or a leak in the vacuum line.

Perhaps BMW recognized this isn't an ideal scenario and may be one part of the reason they went to the electronic BOV. They knew how to detect and anticipate it better and faster. I also think at some point there were some changes in the valvetronic so the engine doesn't generate vacuum normally as a means of torque reduction during shifts, aka the shift farting. With that considered the electronic bov would also be mandatory, don't recall the details just spewing at this point. Hopefully this shows that there are other explanations for the things we experience than whatever the status quo has been.
 

TheFixer

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Ok..... I'm going to dig this thread back up. I'm not running a Tial BOV. I'm running a Turbosmart. I swapped to a 9 in hg spring from their 20 on hg spring so it would be open at idle. I have zero issues. However......Turbosmart says to run their BOV with a spring that keeps it closed at idle. I read the post from Chris at vargas, and agree, with Chris at vargas that having the BOV open at idle is fine. Also, I know the open valve doesn't suck air in at idle either. So nothing to worry about contamination getting sucked in. So..... why does Turbosmart say use a spring that keeps their valve closed at idle?

#turbosmart
 
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Torgus

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Ok..... I'm going to dig this thread back up. I'm not running a Tial BOV. I'm running a Turbosmart. I swapped to a 9 in hg spring from their 20 on hg spring so it would be open at idle. I have zero issues. However......Turbosmart says to run their BOV with a spring that keeps it closed at idle. I read the post from Chris at vargas, and agree, with Chris at vargas that having the BOV open at idle is fine. Also, I know the open valve doesn't suck air in at idle either. So nothing to worry about contamination getting sucked in. So..... why does Turbosmart say use a spring that keeps their valve closed at idle?

#turbosmart

Email them directly if you want their answer on their product. They are not a vendor on this forum.

I would say 90% of BOV VTA Manufacturers reccomend the BOV to be closed at idle/off throttle. Most likely because of FOD and to CYA.

My BOV is closed at idle/off throttle and it is fine. Has been for 75k miles. With the right spring and vac line the BOV will be very responsive. If you want it open, keep it open. There is a chance of debris getting in your intake tract but it is not high.
 

typedRew

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Ok..... I'm going to dig this thread back up. I'm not running a Tial BOV. I'm running a Turbosmart. I swapped to a 9 in hg spring from their 20 on hg spring so it would be open at idle. I have zero issues. However......Turbosmart says to run their BOV with a spring that keeps it closed at idle. I read the post from Chris at vargas, and agree, with Chris at vargas that having the BOV open at idle is fine. Also, I know the open valve doesn't suck air in at idle either. So nothing to worry about contamination getting sucked in. So..... why does Turbosmart say use a spring that keeps their valve closed at idle?

#turbosmart
because a lot of customers will have a mass air flow sensor somewhere in the system and keeping it shut as much as possible keeps the metered air in the system
 
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TheFixer

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Email them directly if you want their answer on their product. They are not a vendor on this forum.

I would say 90% of BOV VTA Manufacturers reccomend the BOV to be closed at idle/off throttle. Most likely because of FOD and to CYA.

My BOV is closed at idle/off throttle and it is fine. Has been for 75k miles. With the right spring and vac line the BOV will be very responsive. If you want it open, keep it open. There is a chance of debris getting in your intake tract but it is not high.

Yeah. I emailed them last week. No response yet. I wanted to hear some thoughts here.

Not sure if it's possible to FOD. At idle and open there is enough air blowing out from the valve it shouldn't be an issue. Don't have a MAF, not an issue there either.

Main thing is making sure there isn't too much spring tension to cause flutter. That's why they say to match the springs to the vacuum being pulled.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 

Torgus

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https://www.gfbuk.com/faqs.cfm

"Since a vent-to-atmosphere BOV needs to be shut at idle to avoid air being drawn in through it, there is a spring inside a BOV with the job of holding the piston closed. The spring preload adjustment is to allow for differences in engine vacuum from car to car, and variations in atmospheric pressure at different elevations.

On airflow metered cars the air drawn in through an open vent-to-atmosphere BOV at idle would confuse the ECU and cause over-fuelling and stalling and in any case, the air drawn in is unfiltered.

Under cruise conditions (off boost) the BOV is experiencing similar conditions to when the car is at idle
, but there is less vacuum present on top of the piston because the throttle is partly open. If the BOV spring has been adjusted to keep the piston closed at idle, it will also be closed at cruise."



https://www.nukeperformance.com/faq-blowoffvalve.html

"What happens within the BOV?

At engine idle engine vacuum at the top of the BOV piston is trying to force the piston to open. There is no vacuum or pressure at the bottom of the piston. A vented BOV needs to remain shut in idle state to avoid leaking. To make that possible, there is a stainless spring inside the upper BOV housing that holds the piston closed. Nuke Performance offers three different springs for differences in engine vacuum in order to make it possible to optimize the setup for any engine."




Tech Support <[email protected]>
to: XXX
date: May 7, 2020, 8:30 AM
subject: Re: Should the Tial BOV 50MM be open at idle or just slightly closed?
signed-by: tialsport-com.20150623.gappssmtp.com
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Tech Support
8:30 AM (8 minutes ago)
to me

Hi, Torgus,

Our spring charts are designed to allow the BOV to be closed at idle, but with just enough of a spring load to allow very quick response upon deceleration.

The only reason you would not do this is if the car is MAF-equipped, as it would affect the engine tuning at idle. But, in reality, a MAF-equipped car really should use a QR and recirculate the discharged air anyhow.

The one 'wrong' thing to do is to use a very stiff spring, stiffer than needed, as that will delay the opening, which negates the purpose of the BOV.

Let me know if this helps.

Best Regards,

Mike Franke
Tech Support
TiALSport, Inc.
E- [email protected]
W- tialsport.com
P- 989-494-7268



from: Jermaine Riddick <[email protected]>
to: Torgus
cc: TurboXS Sales <[email protected]>
date: May 7, 2020, 11:49 AM
subject: Re: Should the TurboXS BOV be open at idle or just slightly closed? The VTA version.
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Jermaine Riddick <[email protected]>
11:49 AM (53 minutes ago)
to me, TurboXS

Torgus,

The valve should be closed.




As long as the second you let off the gas your BOV vents fully with no flutter that is all that really matters. Use the right spring. I like mine closed at idle. Some like it open. 90%+ of BOV manufactures recommend it to be closed at idle/cruising. The good news is you can do whatever you want.
 

TheFixer

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Mine turbosmart raceport with orange spring is closed at idle and is super responsive. I also upgrade it to 1/4" line. Perfect

I did the orange first. That was the lightest one I have. Stays open. Then purple. Stays open. Blue.... closed, but too stiff. I'm going to try a combo when I get more springs. I'll pick whatever matches my vacuum reading.