Bought a Single Turbo Kit - What about PCV? Ignition? Anything else?

[suspenceful]

Just pulled the trigger on a DOC Racing 6266 kit that I'm going to install with my new (used 90k miles) motor.

Before I'm installing anything, I'm going to replace the valve cover and gasket. What should I do for a PCV system with goals of ~700whp? I'm currently running a BMS OCC in standard format, is that good enough? How do I connect the vent line with a single turbo?

What ignition setup works best? I didn't have good luck with the Precision Raceworks kit and a number of different spark plugs when I was running high boost on my MMP S3s. Debating OEM coils or BimmerLife kit, which plugs?

Is there anything else I should do to prepare for this? I think I need a MAC solenoid. Anything special for vacuum line? How long will my O2 sensors last? I have to be forgetting something...

Things I already have:

• JB4 with MHD backend flash
• Port injection with JB4 controller
• Index 12 injectors
• Stage 3 LPFP
• 7.5" race intercooler
• Proper clutch/flywheel
• Lots of heat-related tape and wrap

 

[Erichale77]

I would suggest RB external pcv, bimmerlife coils because they're pug and play, since you have a JB4 you'll need a MAC solenoid and I would get the plug n play version from Burger Motorsports, either NGK o2 sensors or the ADV sensors, NGK 95770 (former 9552) gapped at .020-.022 and you will need new exhaust. 3-3.5 stainless. Just my .02c
Good luck with the build

 

[suspenceful]

I would suggest RB external pcv, bimmerlife coils because they're pug and play, since you have a JB4 you'll need a MAC solenoid and I would get the plug n play version from Burger Motorsports, either NGK o2 sensors or the ADV sensors, NGK 95770 (former 9552) gapped at .020-.022 and you will need new exhaust. 3-3.5 stainless. Just my .02c
Good luck with the build

Great, just what I was looking for. I'm still open to other suggestions!

Since I'm running full E85, would you still suggest the 95770? Or the 2 step colder 97506 available on BMS site?

 

[suspenceful]

Also, which wastegate spring should I use? Ideally I'd like to daily drive it around 600-650whp, but have the option to turn it up to 700whp without swapping springs.

 

[Twisted Tuning]

if 600-700whp is your goal. then WG spring should be around 12-15psi. you don't want to go too high since you lose part throttle boost control the higher you go. you'll make that power between 25-30psi if your tune is good.

 

[all4bspinnin]

Make sure the car has had all the maintenance completed before tuning. Walnut blast, new plugs, and I recommend the PR coils. if you have a top mount to make sure you have everything protected from heat. Get a turbo blanket and relocate the harness. Also, familiarize yourself with how to read and pay attention to your logging.

 

[Erichale77]

I run straight E85 and the 95770 @ .022

 

[doublespaces]

How do I connect the vent line with a single turbo?

You'll just remove the heater element thingy (tape the harness aside) and then run I believe its 3/8" heater hose to a catch can or VTA.

 

[SuperVeloceE82]

Great, just what I was looking for. I'm still open to other suggestions!

Since I'm running full E85, would you still suggest the 95770? Or the 2 step colder 97506 available on BMS site?

Most people run the BMW N20 plug. And gaping around .026-.031 when running the Bimmerlife coils.

Ordered a set waiting for it arrive. But pairing with pure stage 2

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

I would suggest RB external pcv, bimmerlife coils because they're pug and play, since you have a JB4 you'll need a MAC solenoid and I would get the plug n play version from Burger Motorsports, either NGK o2 sensors or the ADV sensors, NGK 95770 (former 9552) gapped at .020-.022 and you will need new exhaust. 3-3.5 stainless. Just my .02c
Good luck with the build

Thanks sir!

Yes we have sold many MANY of these RB External PCV kits to ST guys. Many of them have tried other offerings and find their way back to PCV. Some of them are "ST Smokers" as well that this kit seems to help their cause, wish more would post about these cases. Anyway we have a NON-PNP setup that is not on our website, it is quite a bit cheaper and a bit nicer once installed, shoot us an email if interested or have any questions.

Rob

 

[Omar@VaderSolutions]

i suggest PCV delete, can purchase my kit or from @AD-ENG ... our kits allow for best crank case ventilation , pcv is more of an emission deal. so robs kit just "hides" the smoke, look at his lines, not sure how any crank case ventilation even happens. Andy and I both have a lot of happy customers with our kits even at high hp. If you dont like the small amount of smoke coming from the breather filter then you can easily route that smoke else where.


Omar

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

i suggest PCV delete, can purchase my kit or from @AD-ENG ... our kits allow for best crank case ventilation , pcv is more of an emission deal. so robs kit just "hides" the smoke, look at his lines, not sure how any crank case ventilation even happens. Andy and I both have a lot of happy customers with our kits even at high hp. If you dont like the small amount of smoke coming from the breather filter then you can easily route that smoke else where.


Omar

Hides smoke? Too small lines? The biggest problem with this platform is there are some guys out there who gain some respect, at times for fair reasons, who otherwise have no idea what they are talking about.

On topic if these individuals had any grasp on PCV functionality they would understand that PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation, "Positive" being the operative word. In these systems you have an actual forced ventilation by means of Intake plenum vacuum, which provides a constant low load vacuum pull on the crankcase between the PCV valve and the Vent Hose/flapper assembly. Being as there is a true vacuum source, large lines are purely unnecessary (and in fact can be a hinderance). Clean crankcases over time/mileage, no buildup of sludge over time/mileage, longer oil change intervals due to constantly filtrated crankcase "atmosphere", no unnecessary smells in the cockpit, no dripping oil from the vent outlet making an underhood mess, true light vacuum under most driving conditions on the crankcase to help ring seal, and yes emissions are some of the larger benefits.

Keep in mind this is NOT VTA, where there is absolutely zero "Positive" ventilation and the only thing you can do is make the largest holes you can in the engines top end in hopes it self relieves itself of any possible pressure buildup. You may as well just pull off the valve cover, "Hey N54'ers you can't beat this ventilation!". Anyway this is decent for all out race builds at times but that is about it.

If only we had a nickel for every person who has gone back to PCV after dumping their VTA.

Rob

 

[Omar@VaderSolutions]

vacuum pump is best alternative for high load.
low load/idle i dont see any necessity for pcv or vacuum in crank.

multiple cars that dont come with pcv setup from factory, mainly high end vehicles. the n54 motor isnt anything different or new. upping the pcv system is nice, you did good with your kit but its not a final solution, and like you I have many customers switching from external pcv to my breather setup with great results.

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

and like you I have many customers switching from external pcv to my breather setup with great results.

Great. Now give 90+% of them 3-6 months and they'll be back.

 

[Omar@VaderSolutions]

Great. Now give 90+% of them 3-6 months and they'll be back.

y

 

[gmx]

Have a good read of this: http://www.106rallye.co.uk/members/dynofiend/breathersystems.pdf

 

[The Convert]

vacuum pump is best alternative for high load.
low load/idle i dont see any necessity for pcv or vacuum in crank.

multiple cars that dont come with pcv setup from factory, mainly high end vehicles. the n54 motor isnt anything different or new. upping the pcv system is nice, you did good with your kit but its not a final solution, and like you I have many customers switching from external pcv to my breather setup with great results.

Every car benefits from having vacuum pulled on the crankcase. It's not necessary, but it is better than vta. CC vacuum helps seal rings and seals and reduces windage, which actually makes power. Your kit may work, but rob's kit is better. I don't have either, just for reference.

 

[DAVE]

Can we get back on track?

 

[veer90]

oh boy, a PCV discussion. I'll throw my $0.02 in

I've had 3 sets of turbos on my car (2 oem, current MMPs). all of them had smoking on deceleration to some magnitude, the first set of oem turbos were especially bad (like smoke out an entire city block bad). However it wasn't entirely a turbo problem.

I fixed the smoking on decel issue for good a few months ago. The culprit was inadequate crankcase vacuum even with Rob's External PCV kit as supplied. It's a good kit, just the supplied pinhole check valve wasn't allowing enough crankcase vacuum. I replaced it with a fitting in the valve cover and a big 3/8" Russell check valve and all my smoking issues disappeared. The lack of adequate crankcase vacuum was causing oil to build up in my turbo return lines and spew out the exhaust, and my return lines were verified not kinked or clogged.

It varies motor to motor as some people have factory PCV or Omar's PCV delete and never a smoking issue. But crankcase vacuum was absolutely necessary for proper oil drainage on my motor.

 

[Rob@RBTurbo]

oh boy, a PCV discussion. I'll throw my $0.02 in

I've had 3 sets of turbos on my car (2 oem, current MMPs). all of them had smoking on deceleration to some magnitude, the first set of oem turbos were especially bad (like smoke out an entire city block bad). However it wasn't entirely a turbo problem.

I fixed the smoking on decel issue for good a few months ago. The culprit was inadequate crankcase vacuum even with Rob's External PCV kit as supplied. It's a good kit, just the supplied pinhole check valve wasn't allowing enough crankcase vacuum. I replaced it with a fitting in the valve cover and a big 3/8" Russell check valve and all my smoking issues disappeared. The lack of adequate crankcase vacuum was causing oil to build up in my turbo return lines and spew out the exhaust, and my return lines were verified not kinked or clogged.

It varies motor to motor as some people have factory PCV or Omar's PCV delete and never a smoking issue. But crankcase vacuum was absolutely necessary for proper oil drainage on my motor.

Interesting resolve here but something tells me you may have not had the OEM vent hose (aka flapper assembly) intact however. If you did, and installed a check valve (which is not a PCV Valve), you'd end up with a large amount of vacuum applied to the crankcase (ie. seals howling amount) along with essentially a large intake manifold leak. Many times a person posts a resolve, only to find weeks/months later, that the resolve needs revisited as it was in some way short lived and/or under thought. In the meantime another 10 to 20 have followed their lead, it feels like we keep chasing tails, and no one grows any less confused due to it all lol. Anyway we recently went through this discussion with another here:
http://www.bummerboost.com/showthre...m-side-PCV-using-AD-Fitting-and-BMS-Catch-can

Quick recap: OP thought a check valve was the best answer. Realized later it was not due to eventual codes and later went back to PCV.

Rob