335is rough idle! Yellow battery light!

[Deadlocked]

2011 335is 6mt. No mods besides DCI & BMS cowl filters. Was at a stop light and saw a yellow battery light pop up then got a CEL and it started idling unevenly bouncing from 1-2k RPM. Pulled over at a gas station had my brother bring a scanner and found all these codes.

Car was running perfectly fine until this happened. Checked the rear battery negative cable and it was a little loose pushed it down hard and it started but still uneven idle. It cranks and starts but roughly bouncing from 1-2k rpm.

Here is a picture of codes. Thoughts?

 

[Boorda]

How old is the battery? These cars do funny things when voltage is low.
I'd just let it charge up over night, reset the codes and go from there before freaking out.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

What was the voltage read out?

 

[Rcboosted2007]

Double check those fuses

 

[Deadlocked]

So ended up finding out that I was looking at the Autel scanner version instead of the voltage so that takes that out of the picture lol. The voltage when the car is turned on but not running is 12.23 or so. I didn't check when i actually turned the car on with engine running.

Since the bouncing rpm is indicative of a throttle body issue we took apart the throttle body cleaned it and put a mirror down there and noticed that when I pressed the gas the flapper wasn't opening?

Since I had the camshaft sensor code I decided to buy the camshaft sensor and see if that does anything.

For some reason I don't believe its the battery/starter since the car
's interior lights are fine not weak or flickering and the car cranks but doesn't start unless I give it a lot of gas and there is no sound of the starter sounding bad.

I truly think its an electrical issue of some sort because all these sensors wouldn't go bad out of nowhere.

Attached is a picture of the green corrosion on the ground strap but it's not frayed or anything so and what the car is doing when I start it.

Will double check fuses today.

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[Rcboosted2007]

Is the alternator supplying 14v while running. You can disconnect the battery while car is on to see if it stays running off the alternator power. Have you tried to clear any of the codes?

 

[matreyia]

2011 335is 6mt. No mods besides DCI & BMS cowl filters. Was at a stop light and saw a yellow battery light pop up then got a CEL and it started idling unevenly bouncing from 1-2k RPM. Pulled over at a gas station had my brother bring a scanner and found all these codes.

Car was running perfectly fine until this happened. Checked the rear battery negative cable and it was a little loose pushed it down hard and it started but still uneven idle. It cranks and starts but roughly bouncing from 1-2k rpm.

Here is a picture of codes. Thoughts?

You may need to replace your IBS negative terminal if your battery shows good power still and you got electrical problems.

 

[Rcboosted2007]

It appears,The mystery remains.

 

[BrazyN54]

My car does that when I reset the throttle adaptation, or if the dme connectors arent all the way seated.

 

[matreyia]

My car does that when I reset the throttle adaptation, or if the dme connectors arent all the way seated.

Resetting throttle does not do anything of the sort UNLESS you fail to shut off your car completely,
then turn on ONLY IGNITION but not engine, then wait 30 seconds before starting the car.

 

[BrazyN54]

Resetting throttle does not do anything of the sort UNLESS you fail to shut off your car completely,
then turn on ONLY IGNITION but not engine, then wait 30 seconds before starting the car.

Adaptation reset through inpa causes that for me sometimes, even if I wait 10 minutes for the car to completely go to sleep. It's fine through MHD.

 

[matreyia]

Adaptation reset through inpa causes that for me sometimes, even if I wait 10 minutes for the car to completely go to sleep. It's fine through MHD.

It doesn't matter if you wait two days...it will still go apeshit if you don't actuvate the ignition with engine OFF, then WAIT 30 SECONDS before starting the engine.

It is the 30 seconds preignition sequence that tells the ecu that reset has been made...NOT turning the car off for days.

 

[BrazyN54]

It doesn't matter if you wait two days...it will still go apeshit if you don't actuvate the ignition with engine OFF, then WAIT 30 SECONDS before starting the engine.

It is the 30 seconds preignition sequence that tells the ecu that reset has been made...NOT turning the car off for days.

Why are you getting so heated lol
You're assuming a lot of things so I'll just leave it at that.

 

[matreyia]

Why are you getting so heated lol
You're assuming a lot of things so I'll just leave it at that.

Heated? You must mean the all caps? Those are there to make absolutely sure you understand that they are the most important points. If I don't write those words in caps, then it looks like unimportant stuff. so:

1. activate the ignition with engine OFF, then WAIT 30 SECONDS before starting the engine.

I don't know how else to put it. From your post so far, I had to put those things in all caps because you are not doing it EXACTLY as written.

Turn ON IGNITION - do not turn on engine.
Wait 30 seconds.
Then turn on the car engine.

There will be absolutely no problems if you do this EXACTLY.