Technical AzNdevil's RHD 335 6MT Build Thread Last Updated: May 26, 2020

AzNdevil

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Nov 4, 2016
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A dyno benchmark which was surprising and makes me wonder if its too good to be true...
Ignore the RUN ID, some of these pics were taken before it was edited

Dynapack Dyno - SAE and smoothing at 2


First Pull
IMG_20161121_211238.jpg


Back to back Pulls - Car could really use an intercooler...
IMG_20161121_210946.jpg


AFR
IMG_20161121_210702.jpg
 
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doublespaces

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I see how you did SAE. I kind of wish we would all switch from STD, but its kind of late at this point.
 

AzNdevil

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Well...its used as a baseline for myself anyways... but from what I understand the figure from a SAE dyno chart is supposed to be lower than STD?

Dyno comparison with two other AT cars with stage 2+ bits and OTS Stage 2+ map. These were take 30-60 minutes before me and honestly...I don't know what to make of it. Solid Red curve is what I had and the other two dotted curves are from two other cars.

In "Mexico", the car with the lowest HP output and second highest torque output is the fastest to 250 km/h.

IMG_20161121_211725.jpg
 
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AzNdevil

Sergeant
Nov 4, 2016
427
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Hong Kong
quick update...
VRSF FBO bits arrived, installed the intercooler, one of the o2 bung threads were the wrong way for some reason
got the replacement downpipe from Tiago pretty quick but i haven't checked or installed it yet

Hard Race rear camber arms, toe arms, guide rods installed, new alignment done

i will do a detailed write up when i have pics:)
 

doublespaces

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quick update...
VRSF FBO bits arrived, installed the intercooler, one of the o2 bung threads were the wrong way for some reason
got the replacement downpipe from Tiago pretty quick but i haven't checked or installed it yet

Hard Race rear camber arms, toe arms, guide rods installed, new alignment done

i will do a detailed write up when i have pics:)

Ah that is bad luck on the bung being flipped the wrong way.
 

AzNdevil

Sergeant
Nov 4, 2016
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Hong Kong
OK so I am officially FBO now with VRSF 7" HD Intercooler and VRSF catless downpipes.
I ordered these bits during the black friday sale and it took a while to be shipped.

I received the package and dropped my car off at my garage for install. Somehow one the O2 bung had reversed threads on one of the downpipes. I have ordered 4 sets of downpipes with some other friends and they were all fine except for mine.

So... this meant I was only able to install the intercooler first. After the intercooler was installed, I went out for a drive, turbos wouldn't spool and limped with a half engine light...Smoke tested the connections and found a leak at the turbo outlet to intercooler connection. Since the connection is more easy to reach from the top, my mechanic decided to take the radiator fan out and broke the nipple connecting the overflow tank on my upper coolant pipe. Since everything was taken apart already, we tightened the connection until there was no more smoke coming out and called it a day.

Upper coolant hose came, installed, and my mechanic noticed the Lower coolant hose was starting to crack as well.....:mad: and... my belt is screeching after coolant sprayed onto it from the broken nipple so I decided to replace the lower coolant hose, belt, belt tensioner and the pulleys at the same time as I have no idea when they were last done.

Finally...everything was installed. Time for testing! I already bought the MHD OTS Stage 1 map pack so I just plugged my phone in and flashed to Stage 1+... The car felt a lot more powerful after the turbo is done spooling. Also, IATs were a lot cooler than before especially on back to back pulls from 80km/h to 200+ km/h. Didn't bother to log anything though...

Shitty Intercooler Pic
29.jpg

However, with the new added power, the flex in the rear control arm bushings are even more noticeable. Since the car is only for spirited driving/track, I ended up going with Hard Race Camber Arms/Toe Arms/Guide Rods. Originally I planned to go with Bimmerworld arms but after a bit of researching, these arms are prone to crap from the road which causes the bearings/joints to develop slack due to lack of dust boots. Also, the arms were out of stock when I needed them and I can buy Hard Race parts locally...

Hard Race Arms
24.jpg


25.jpg


Of course, new arms means new alignment. I chose to reduce the caster on my car this time so I can gain more camber on the front and with new rear camber arms, I added more camber to compliment the front camber which allows faster cornering (hopefully).

Front: -2.8 degrees camber/-0.1 degrees toe out/6.7 degrees caster
Rear: -2.4 degrees camber/0.1 degrees toe in

With less caster, my tire now rubs the inner fender at a different spot. All the noticeable slack from the rear is finally gone. Butt dyno says I am cornering at faster speeds than before.

Back to the downpipe.... Tiago from VRSF was quick to resolve the issue and sent the replacement pipe out immediately. I didn't know they sent it until he gave me the tracking number and found out it had been delivered to my friend's house already on the same day.

Picked up the pipe a few days later and since I had time, I stood around and watched my garage install/wrestle the pipe. Definitely not something I want to do myself without a lift. It's the first time my mechanic did downpipes on a 335, so... he chose to lower the front subframe a little and support the engine for more room to release the v bands on the downpipe.

As soon as he lowered the subframe, I saw the infamous rear wastegate actuator rod! This is inaccessible on RHD cars due to the steering rack in the way. Since my wastegates were rattling like crazy, I asked them to take a stab at adjusting the rod as well.

Rear Wastegate Actuator Rod on RHD car
27.jpg


28.jpg


We ended up tightening the rod by three complete turns based on his experience with wastegates on other cars and this completely eliminated my wastegate rattle! I know it will come back eventually to bite me but hopefully by then I will have the $$ to replace OEM turbos or go for Pure Stage2/GC Lites or whatever...

Old Exhaust Gaskets, completely fell apart
26.jpg


Downpipes Installed, no rubbing on subframe
30.jpg


With everything buttoned up, MHD OTS Stage 2+ map was flashed and I went out to test. Turbos spooled up a lot faster and revs climbed a lot faster than Stage 1+ but I am pretty sure tightening the rod helped quite a bit as well. The increase in power is definitely not as strong as Stage 1 to Stage 1+ but it is still noticeable.

Next... an unexpected purchase... a used Howerton Engineering Twin Tank with Aquamist HFS-4 kit from @R.G.! I originally planned to do a dual oil cooler setup first but this kit showed up at the wrong time... I didn't want to miss the opportunity as I don't think I have seen this kit sold as used.
 
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doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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2009 E93 335i
OK so I am officially FBO now with VRSF 7" HD Intercooler and VRSF catless downpipes.
I ordered these bits during the black friday sale and it took a while to be shipped.

I received the package and dropped my car off at my garage for install. Somehow one the O2 bung had reversed threads on one of the downpipes. I have ordered 4 sets of downpipes with some other friends and they were all fine except for mine.

So... this meant I was only able to install the intercooler first. After the intercooler was installed, I went out for a drive, turbos wouldn't spool and limped with a half engine light...Smoke tested the connections and found a leak at the turbo outlet to intercooler connection. Since the connection is more easy to reach from the top, my mechanic decided to take the radiator fan out and broke the nipple connecting the overflow tank on my upper coolant pipe. Since everything was taken apart already, we tightened the connection until there was no more smoke coming out and called it a day.

Upper coolant hose came, installed, and my mechanic noticed the Lower coolant hose was starting to crack as well.....:mad: and... my belt is screeching after coolant sprayed onto it from the broken nipple so I decided to replace the lower coolant hose, belt, belt tensioner and the pulleys at the same time as I have no idea when they were last done.

Finally...everything was installed. Time for testing! I already bought the MHD OTS Stage 1 map pack so I just plugged my phone in and flashed to Stage 1+... The car felt a lot more powerful after the turbo is done spooling. Also, IATs were a lot cooler than before especially on back to back pulls from 80km/h to 200+ km/h. Didn't bother to log anything though...

Shitty Intercooler Pic
View attachment 1362
However, with the new added power, the flex in the rear control arm bushings are even more noticeable. Since the car is only for spirited driving/track, I ended up going with Hard Race Camber Arms/Toe Arms/Guide Rods. Originally I planned to go with Bimmerworld arms but after a bit of researching, these arms are prone to crap from the road which causes the bearings/joints to develop slack due to lack of dust boots. Also, the arms were out of stock when I needed them and I can buy Hard Race parts locally...

Hard Race Arms
View attachment 1357

View attachment 1358

Of course, new arms means new alignment. I chose to reduce the caster on my car this time so I can gain more camber on the front and with new rear camber arms, I added more camber to compliment the front camber which allows faster cornering (hopefully).

Front: -2.8 degrees camber/-0.1 degrees toe out/6.7 degrees caster
Rear: -2.4 degrees camber/0.1 degrees toe in

With less caster, my tire now rubs the inner fender at a different spot. All the noticeable slack from the rear is finally gone. Butt dyno says I am cornering at faster speeds than before.

Back to the downpipe.... Tiago from VRSF was quick to resolve the issue and sent the replacement pipe out immediately. I didn't know they sent it until he gave me the tracking number and found out it had been delivered to my friend's house already on the same day.

Picked up the pipe a few days later and since I had time, I stood around and watched my garage install/wrestle the pipe. Definitely not something I want to do myself without a lift. It's the first time my mechanic did downpipes on a 335, so... he chose to lower the front subframe a little and support the engine for more room to release the v bands on the downpipe.

As soon as he lowered the subframe, I saw the infamous rear wastegate actuator rod! This is inaccessible on RHD cars due to the steering rack in the way. Since my wastegates were rattling like crazy, I asked them to take a stab at adjusting the rod as well.

Rear Wastegate Actuator Rod on RHD car
View attachment 1360

View attachment 1361

We ended up tightening the rod by three complete turns based on his experience with wastegates on other cars and this completely eliminated my wastegate rattle! I know it will come back eventually to bite me but hopefully by then I will have the $$ to replace OEM turbos or go for Pure Stage2/GC Lites or whatever...

Old Exhaust Gaskets, completely fell apart
View attachment 1359

Downpipes Installed, no rubbing on subframe
View attachment 1363

With everything buttoned up, MHD OTS Stage 2+ map was flashed and I went out to test. Turbos spooled up a lot faster and revs climbed a lot faster than Stage 1+ but I am pretty sure tightening the rod helped quite a bit as well. The increase in power is definitely not as strong as Stage 1 to Stage 1+ but it is still noticeable.

Next... an unexpected purchase... a used Howerton Engineering Twin Tank with Aquamist HFS-4 kit from @R.G.! I originally planned to do a dual oil cooler setup first but this kit showed up at the wrong time... I didn't want to miss the opportunity as I don't think I have seen this kit sold as used.

Yeah, you hopped in line before me on the kit!

Really great write up on your install! I'm building all my motivation as I'll be tearing into my car soon as well.
 

AzNdevil

Sergeant
Nov 4, 2016
427
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Hong Kong
Yeah, you hopped in line before me on the kit!

Really great write up on your install! I'm building all my motivation as I'll be tearing into my car soon as well.

to be honest, i only saw the ad because you shared the forum post to the facebook group :p
i did consider letting you have it as i borrowed my mechanic's land rover while the coolant pipe was on order and reversed into someone....forked out 2k+ usd....

writing this post made me realize how much money i have spent on the car over the past year and how much i still need to spend to turn it into what i want.............
 

doublespaces

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Oct 18, 2016
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Its better off with you. I'm convertible and cannot use half of it. These cars cost money, but they are fun.
 

AzNdevil

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Nov 4, 2016
427
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Hong Kong
lol but you will need a kit when you get your turbos too;)

after several discussions at different places and further research, i have concluded i am more octane limited (not so 93 oct pump gas) than hpfp pressures so the best solution for me is to do a meth setup before my quest for more power....

i've considered doing a direct port meth injection right from the start but it might be too complicated as its my first time with meth...and funds dont really allow for this at the moment anyways so i am going to play with CP injection first and see where it gets me
 

AzNdevil

Sergeant
Nov 4, 2016
427
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Hong Kong
been a while since i updated this thread...anyways
bought a walnut blasting kit from bavarian autosport on ebay so i can get my garage to walnut blast my valves...
IMG_20170124_005531.jpg

IMG_20170124_005544.jpg


WI Kit!
got a WI kit from @R.G. on here...cleaned it up a little..bought some new lines and fittings
IMG_20170202_031125.jpg

IMG_20170202_042731.jpg

IMG_20170125_202011.jpg
 
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doublespaces

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How many gallons is that tank? It doesn't look like more than 10-15? I've got a 20 gal tank for running my impact wrench and other air tools. I suppose I could use it to blast my valves also..Hmm.
 

AzNdevil

Sergeant
Nov 4, 2016
427
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Hong Kong
WI RHD Install Part 1...
Since the access hole from the cabin exits behind the DME box...I had to take everything out....
Unfortunately I couldn't get my camera down there, this is the only pic I have of the hole.. theres only one hole there, can't miss it...
IMG_20170202_182935.jpg

IMG_20170202_183047.jpg


From the inside...Notice the red handle from my screwdriver...
IMG_20170202_183002.jpg

IMG_20170202_183009.jpg


After everything came apart, I ran the hose along the side and realized...I didn't order enough hose...
IMG_20170202_184416.jpg


FML... 4 hours of my life wasted...

To make things worse... the postman ran off with my Posi-Taps... I couldn't catch him in time when he rang on my doorbell...so now I have to go pick it up at the post office...and I have to order more hose... and shipping costs more than the hose itself...
 

AzNdevil

Sergeant
Nov 4, 2016
427
186
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Hong Kong
Walnut Blasting...
You've all seen the effects of walnut blasting... so heres mine... I have no idea if it was done before but I highly doubt it. I bought the car at 78000KM, it's now at around 93000KM.

Before
IMG-20170208-WA0318.jpg

Tape the ports up...
IMG_20170208_221341.jpg


Blast it
IMG_20170208_223341.jpg


End Result
IMG-20170208-WA0320.jpg


Rinse and repeat for the other five cylinders, Replace Intake Manifold and Throttle Body Gaskets, Done.

Review: Throttle Response is a lot better after blasting. Butt dyno says turbos spools up quicker and theres a little more power. But fuel economy definitely improved a little over the past few tanks.