Preface
First off I'd like to say welcome to my biggest DIY project yet! For all those wondering, I'm 10K miles into the manual swap, and I've never loved driving my car like I do now! A whole different experience going from auto to manual in the same car too! Definitely would suggest to anyone who wants some good motoring back into an excellent European sports car. Manual shifts like butter and I love how precise you need to be with the clutch and how heavy the clutch feels. Grab point is up high and it loves to be in a particular spot for good engagements. Clutch chatter is there, but can be negated via MHD and setting idle to 800-950RPM. I don't mind it as i've gotten used to it already lmao. Thanks again everyone for the help and thanks @omarmarji for teaming up!
Back Story:
I've been driving my car for about 2 years now (owned it since October, 2013) and I've been reading up on mechanics and other similar topics while having owned my car, seeing as how it was a BMW I told myself I would do the work on my own to save money. Well after doing all the work and learning the mechanics behind this German beast and with the car creeping up to 110k miles I was questioning whether to keep the car or trade it. The car has been very good to me, even after driving pretty hard it still runs 100 all day everyday, I do all recommended maintenance myself (3-5K mile Oil changes, changed transmission fluid @ 90K Miles, etc) . I've had all the common issues resolved via extended warranty (HPFP, Water pump, valve cover, oil filter housing gasket, mechatronic sleeve, injectors, etc) (foresaw this happening that is why I got the warranty) so after some research into the matter (manual swap) I found a really nice deal on a manual transmission with about 35K miles on it and I have a buddy of mine who has done several auto to manual swaps on other similar configuration cars (longitudinally mounted transmissions, aka: typical RWD drivetrain setup) and with some parts list of the conversion I was off! So with that being said, I have decided to document the whole process for anyone who is interested in performing this DIY. I've read nothing but negative things on this job, from "waste of money" to "it's not even worth it". Well to those who love their car too much to trade it in and want to convert to manual to revive some of that "ultimate driving experience" I say to you, Read on friends !
Car we are talking about in this write-up:
2007 Black/Beige 335i RWD Sedan N54 Build date: 01/07 (technically 12/06)
Will be swapping a GS6-53BZ from a 07 manual 335i with about 37K on the transmission
KEY:
Let's start off with the Parts list:
I will for the most part being using OEM parts to perform this conversion, I recommend for those who want to save some money to attempt to find a loaner vehicle or in other words a car you can snag the parts off.
Little Parts (Bolts, screws, etc):
I also have added a few maintenance items while doing the transmissions It's a good idea to attack all the seals that you'll encounter especially with high mileage trans and motors. I would get the rear main seal, and the drive shaft insert as well and any seals for the trans if you have a high mileage transmission. I will not be replacing those as my trans only has about 35k on it. I will change the fluid of course. if you have the extra cash and they aren't expensive at all...total is about 20-30 bucks for both. Well Worth if you don't want oil leaking onto your clutch and flywheel.
Tools Required
(I will add all the standard standard tools you will need as well later on, ie: 8mm, 10mm, etc I'll list just add the specialty ones for now relating to this job)
*TIPS*
First off I'd like to say welcome to my biggest DIY project yet! For all those wondering, I'm 10K miles into the manual swap, and I've never loved driving my car like I do now! A whole different experience going from auto to manual in the same car too! Definitely would suggest to anyone who wants some good motoring back into an excellent European sports car. Manual shifts like butter and I love how precise you need to be with the clutch and how heavy the clutch feels. Grab point is up high and it loves to be in a particular spot for good engagements. Clutch chatter is there, but can be negated via MHD and setting idle to 800-950RPM. I don't mind it as i've gotten used to it already lmao. Thanks again everyone for the help and thanks @omarmarji for teaming up!
Back Story:
I've been driving my car for about 2 years now (owned it since October, 2013) and I've been reading up on mechanics and other similar topics while having owned my car, seeing as how it was a BMW I told myself I would do the work on my own to save money. Well after doing all the work and learning the mechanics behind this German beast and with the car creeping up to 110k miles I was questioning whether to keep the car or trade it. The car has been very good to me, even after driving pretty hard it still runs 100 all day everyday, I do all recommended maintenance myself (3-5K mile Oil changes, changed transmission fluid @ 90K Miles, etc) . I've had all the common issues resolved via extended warranty (HPFP, Water pump, valve cover, oil filter housing gasket, mechatronic sleeve, injectors, etc) (foresaw this happening that is why I got the warranty) so after some research into the matter (manual swap) I found a really nice deal on a manual transmission with about 35K miles on it and I have a buddy of mine who has done several auto to manual swaps on other similar configuration cars (longitudinally mounted transmissions, aka: typical RWD drivetrain setup) and with some parts list of the conversion I was off! So with that being said, I have decided to document the whole process for anyone who is interested in performing this DIY. I've read nothing but negative things on this job, from "waste of money" to "it's not even worth it". Well to those who love their car too much to trade it in and want to convert to manual to revive some of that "ultimate driving experience" I say to you, Read on friends !
Car we are talking about in this write-up:
2007 Black/Beige 335i RWD Sedan N54 Build date: 01/07 (technically 12/06)
Will be swapping a GS6-53BZ from a 07 manual 335i with about 37K on the transmission
KEY:
- BLUE = OEM Part number
- BOLD = Additional notes based on observation and other things
Let's start off with the Parts list:
I will for the most part being using OEM parts to perform this conversion, I recommend for those who want to save some money to attempt to find a loaner vehicle or in other words a car you can snag the parts off.
- GS6-53DZ 6-Speed ZF Manual Gearbox (23007571423) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Clutch switch module (should come with master cylinder, doublecheck) OEM part number: (61319231129) (#20 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- MTF-LT-2 or MTF-LT-3 (depends on what label on transmission says, if not check Bentley it will tell you, but from what I've heard LT-2 is the way to go unless stated on transmission otherwise)
- BMW SAC(Self Adjusting Clutch) or equivalent (21207567623) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- BMW Manual Gearbox Shiftier Assembly with bracket(all part #'s in diagram) (for this one I suggest finding a shifter from a loaner car it will a lot easier since this assembly does not come in one piece, search ebay, etc for assembly) Link: BMW Parts Catalog
- BMW OEM Dual Mass Flywheel or equivalent flywheel (21207542984) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Pedalbox Assembly (Brake and Clutch pedal box with Slave Cylinder attached (if no slave cylinder is attached then obtain it separate)(35006762926) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Engine wiring harness for manual transmission module (if you don't plan on doing the wiring to the clutch switch module and the reverse light, 3 wires pretty straight forward might require proprietary connector or retrofitting) (12517556381) (#1 in diagram (S205A=No (Auto option = No))) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Clutch Master Cylinder (Input Cylinder Clutch(if it doesn't come with pedal box)) (21526773670) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Clutch Slave Cylinder (Output Cylinder Clutch )(21526785964) (#15 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Clutch lines (ones going from the Master to the Slave and from Master to Break fluid reservoir) (#14, 10, 7 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Manual gearbox Accelerator Pedal with accelerator module (35426860000) (#1 in Diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Drive Shaft (The automatic one is 1453mm, manual is 1470mm for models up to 03/07) (26107614384) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Manual Gearbox Diff (3.08 ratio (only needed if you have the auto diff from 08 and up as they are smaller and require the diffs to be changed, unlike the ones from before 08 which sport the 3.46 ratio on the diff, so completely up to you if you want to change it out for the longer ratios aka less burn out potential, but better gas mileage)) (33107571187) (#1 in diagram) Link: RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
- Super DOT 4 Pentosin Brake Fluid or Equivalent (Will need to add a little extra for clutch master and slave)
- Spec Stage 1 Clutch (SB531-2) Decided to go with a Stage 1 instead of a Stage 2 as I didn’t feel the need to spend the extra hundred as I don’t plan on putting down lots of power and this clutch is good for 430 Torque Link: SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Results By Car
- Spec Aluminum Flywheel (SB53A-2) Went with this instead of a Dual Mass, good upgrade for those looking to take off some weight and a more connected feel. Link: SPEC Clutches & Flywheels: Auto Parts, Domestic, Import, Truck, Racing, Drifting :: Results By Car
Little Parts (Bolts, screws, etc):
I also have added a few maintenance items while doing the transmissions It's a good idea to attack all the seals that you'll encounter especially with high mileage trans and motors. I would get the rear main seal, and the drive shaft insert as well and any seals for the trans if you have a high mileage transmission. I will not be replacing those as my trans only has about 35k on it. I will change the fluid of course. if you have the extra cash and they aren't expensive at all...total is about 20-30 bucks for both. Well Worth if you don't want oil leaking onto your clutch and flywheel.
Tools Required
(I will add all the standard standard tools you will need as well later on, ie: 8mm, 10mm, etc I'll list just add the specialty ones for now relating to this job)
- Bentley Service Manual (THE DIY BIBLE) Link: BMW Repair Manual - BMW 3 Series (E90, E91, E92, E93): 2006-2011 Bentley Publishers - Repair Manuals and Automotive Books
- Transmission Jack (Transmissions weighs about 125LB)
- 50mm Open Wrench (Rear Drive shaft to diff removal) (Found equivalent to speciality tool (tool is $600) use this yamaha axle nut wrench Link: Tusk OEM Axle Nut Wrench | ATV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC)
- 8,10,12,13,18,23mm socket and/or wrench (Get swivel sockets as well, these will help when getting into tight spots)
- E10,E12,E14 Torx socket
- 1/2 Torque Wrench
- Jack and Jack stands ( If you have no lift available)
- 1/2” and 3/8” extensions (Get wobble extensions they will help with getting out the bellhousing bolts!)
- Zip Ties (Long ones and short ones (you never know…))
- Pressure Bleeder (To bleed brakes when adding in new fluid for clutch)
- Red Thread Locker (for the flywheel bolts, very important. You don't want your flywheel bolts to start coming undone with all the heat and vibration)
- Will also need OBD to USB Cable for programming
*TIPS*
- For the manual harness wiring there a few proprietary connectors that will need to either be obtained or bypassed in order to wire in the connection for the brake light and the clutch switch module
- For the Driveshaft you can either buy the back half of a manual or buy the whole manual driveshaft. Be sure to double check length based on what diff you have. Look up driveshaft on realoem to check for length.
- Inlet coolant pipe on automatics have a pipe that sticks out that needs to be plugged somehow(tips i've gotten on this was bolt and JB weld or if it's the right material just weld something to it to shut it.
- Heater Return line, same thing as well, but this is just a rubber hose that will need to be plugged, as this is where the heat exchanger was plugged into.
- You can choose to replace the radiator if you want to, but the radiator in the N54 consists of a separate flow for the oil cooler for the transmission. The heat exchanger can be removed without problems to the rest of the coolant system.
- When disconnecting driveshaft, make a mark when you disconnected them for easy reassembly. I believe the two parts are independatly balanced, but i've heard the opposite, so mark it. Better be safe than sorry.
- Guide for setting up Inpa for those not wanting to download VM (alot easier with the VM in my opinion)(Coming Soon...)
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