The General's F13 M6

[General.Massacre]

Hi all.

Anyone here miss me, I mean its been an age, I hope at least some of you did

So as some may be aware, i had the E92 335i N54, got a really good offer on that car, sold her, and then moved on to the 2013 F13 640d, drove that for a good year, then realised i wanted to upgrade to the M6, so, thats what i did.

So with the above said, I introduce my new (to me) 2013 BMW F13 M6, Alpine White III with Sakhir Orange interior.

This car has been a dream to own for many years since I first saw it on the road. and its, in my opinion, one of the most menacing cars on the road today, and is the only car that i would have sold the 640d for, but its I decided its time for me to experience an own an M car, and this is what i wanted.

The Back Story:
Since i started searching for an M6, i made use of 2 very important resources, BMW to check for Comments, and a friend to check for vehicle history who works at the local traffic police department.
After looking at a few, and getting strange feedback, and some deals that just weren't meeting my requirements and demands (yes I'm a difficult customer to service). I revisited this one that i first went to to see.

His response for this car came back with minimal owners, however had a very loud warning, "Vehicle deemed not viable to repair". to which i immediately saw and ignored the car initially, after some time i was thinking, and went back to his email, and contacted the Insurance company that owned the car at the time of the comment, and asked for information. the Lady assisted and stated the car was NOT in a crash at all and said it was in incredible condition, and that the comment was related to the previous owner at the time having hydro locked the motor, and claimed. but deemed to expensive to repair it (They wanted to replace with a new BMW engine), and the car went to Auction with the damaged motor. It was picked up, and had the motor fully rebuilt by by a company in Durban, SA , this included Main and Big End Bearings, Valve Stem Seals, rings, Upper and Lower Sump gaskets and everything else that would accompany a car. I spoke to the Gent at RM Auto and he remembers the car and explained the rebuild and that the car was in overall excellent condition.

I raise this above information purely for information sake for in the event that sometime in the future the car is for sale, or someone is interested, there is no hidden info thinking that the car was written off and rebuilt. and that in fact, the car is immaculate. to say the least.

I contacted the Dealer and requested a visit and a test drive.
Initially they didn't accept my offer and deal, and i left with @Osiris empty handed, pretty upset, and deflated, as it was a great drive.

Fast forward a few weeks, and The dealer contacted me again, and discussed figures, and came to an excellent agreement and proceeded with the deal within the day.

I took delivery yesterday afternoon, and enjoyed the drive back from Pretoria to Fourways.

She is a dream to drive, and ill soon be making her mine with some coding to personalize it more.

So here she is.
2013 model, 105 000km

These pics are from Sept 2023 when i got the car, ive now covered 10 000km trouble free, and will update this thread with more information from my ownership a little later tonight, or tomorrow, but wanted to just jump on here and give a quick hello and how'd ya do

Will catch up in a bit with more pics, and work that ive carried out and some adjustments.

Hope there are a few more S63 fans here with some good knowledge,

 

[wheela]

Welcome back, and congrats on the nice ride!

 

[General.Massacre]

I never noticed, but the side sills on the M6 light up, i never get in the passenger side lol, so i never saw, when i did i thought it was amazing and investigated the Drivers side and saw it was just a funky connection on the illuminator, so fixed it, as well as gave it a damn clean underneath the sill cover:

Since this fix was done, the sill light has again stopped working, and i cant seem to get it back on, so may need to try source another one somewhere

Also, (i know this is a V8), but I've been getting pretty heavy fuel economy, and have always had "Catalytic Converter: Efficiency below limit value" and "Catalytic Converter 2: Efficiency below limit value" errors, i know this has been due to the Downpipes.
So ive had 3 options:
1. Get Stock Dowpipes - Expensive (Actually managed to eventually source a set for free, so they in my cupboard)
2. Get and try Cat Foolers - Cheap as chips
3. Get software - MHD is around 13k for a super license

So i decided on Option 2 and purchased a set of Cat Foolers and fitted them.

I cleared the errors and went for a drive, i knw there needs to be a drive cycle or two generally, but after a bit of a hard drive, no errors returned yet, so i will monitor it for a while.

My understanding is that the Pre Cat O2/Lambda sensor (Primary - Wideband) measures the Air/Fuel mix coming straight out the motor, the Catalytic Converter then heats up and "cleans" the exhaust gasses for emissions control, and the Post Cat O2/Lambda Sensor (Secondary - Narrowband) measures how clean the gasses are after they've been burnt up.
With the Cat removed, both sensors are measuring the same quality of Gas, this puts the secondary sensors in Low efficiency mode making the car think that the Catalytic Converter is damaged or not doing its job, this puts the car into a default Air/Fuel program and essentially just dumps fuel in to try "burn out" the cats to go back to correct efficiency, hence the high fuel consumption. - Im sure Ive got this right, happy to have a discussion on it, but this is how I understand it from my research.

So with all that said, i need to monitor the Codes and fueling for a while and see how the car responds. I know the best way to handle this is to get software, and have he secondary sensors removed from the software instead and tuned for it. it will be the most ideal.
Saying that, this is a Temporary measure till i can do MHD Software (Stg0 with the option for Catless DP ticked)

 

[General.Massacre]

Few small things here and there that have been done:
ive done a few small things, replaced Fuse for Cigarette Lighter sockets.
Fixed/greased the rear sun blind as it got stuck in the up position, thought maybe the motor was toast, or a fuse, but the plastic just got dry, so greased with Motul EZ-Lube, worked it manually, then after a few cycles with the switch up and down, i put a little bit of Lithium grease, very little, at a few points along the guide rail, works smooth now.

Other than that, all good.

I am getting a "Charge Battery" warning, but i note on the battery its stamped "36 16" so the 36th Week of 2016, and its a 95ah AGM battery, and not the 105ah AGM battery that was coded for the car, even though i did code the battery correctly when checked it, seems the battery is old, so had it replaced with a "new" battery that is Non-BMW, and ive since noted that the battery only has 60% health according tot he Bimmerlink app, and they wont accept a return on the battery, as their tests show that battery and alternator are fine. so im stuck with this battery for the foreseeable future.
Even today, i still have to have the charger connected if i leave the car standing for more than a full day or two, otherwise i get the "Battery discharge when stationary" error.

So tackled the disconnection of the Comfort Access handles to try diagnose a battery drain i have, after 2 weeks or more, i still have the same issue, so its safe to say its not the handles, so when i have a gap i will be reconnecting them (Yes i did clean the grime that you see there):

The 4 wire connector was for the Comfort Access, and the 2 Wire connector is for the LED Puddle Light, so quick and easy test. just finicky.

So i believe the issue has to be a forgotten Tracker unit somewhere in the car, i just need to spend some time and strip out all the engine bay covers, Footwell covers etc to try find the damn thing and remove it.
My battery health on the Bimmerlink app shows as 55% fully charged (on an apparently new battery), but within about a week, its dropped down to about 41%, and slowly gets lower.
Also, as the battery drops and gives me "Charge Battery" errors, it starts to affect the car, like causing Rail Pressure Sensor errors and then the car runs badly till i clear the error, i was worried about the HPFP going bad, but there is no way they both fail at the same time, and since keeping the battery at a decent level of charge, the Rail Pressure errors havent returned, so i know for a fact its the battery causing it.

So requirement is to buy a new OEM battery, or, at the very least, buy a new Varta AGM 105aH battery, as they are the OEM supplier. I have a First National Battery currently fitted, which i think i got screwed on. but it is what it is.

I purchased 2 Brand new Bosch Primary O2 Sensors (Wideband). i havent taken any photos of them so will take a few pics of the old O2 sensors when i can, they actually not bad at all.
I realised i needed the O2 Sensor socket, so contact @Bugger and he loaned me his one, so much appreciated to have the right tools (I must still make a plan to come return it bud.)
The O2 sensors were changed in under 5min, was very quick, and the car felt a little smoother, however the voltages and values when logging read the same, so safe to say the refresh of the sensors wasnt needed, but always good to have new i guess, but i have a spare set if i ever need them now.

Also i got the OEM Downpipes:

Some things i want to fix that are bothering me a bit, but not a major issue:
1. The coolant hard lines running to the turbos are sitting a bit higher than they should, and i see that its because when they rebuilt the motor, it looks like they werent routed perfectly, so instead of slipping under one of the lower pipes, its resting on top, and keeps the pipes lifted. so ill tackle that when i replace the Auxillary Coolant pump under the Charge Cooler.
2. Change the 4 rubber Coolant Pipes and Heat blankets by the turbos as preventative maintenance, pretty cheap from BMW.
3. Maybe new Charge pipes, as the locating clips for the Coolant hard lines are broken, but its not a major issue, ill assess once i eventually fix the routing issue on the coolant lines.

In July i had a very very strong smell of fuel, and found that the Passenger side fuel rail was leaking on the feed to Injector No.7, so had to source a new Fuel Rail, as i found out that the Fuel rails on the S63 are a complete rail, unlike the 6cyl where each rail to injector pipe can be removed individually.
Also had him remove the spark plug of that cylinder to ensure no fuel on the plug, and also check the injector, no issues present so thats a relief.
The work was done by a local garage. A great gent by the name of Matthew, Ex BMW Tech. and very pedantic and meticulous.

Then this last week, I decided to do a Software Update on the car, to bring the BMW iLevels up to date from 2013 software to 2023.
This turned into a little bit of a story. scared the hell out of me...
The car was booked in at BMW JSN, and the The initial update failed on the CAS module, and as a result the car was a paperweight for a small timeframe, but they recovered the car, and then the Keys wouldn't work. this was due to the fact, unbeknown to me, the one key I've using was actually an aftermarket key. so somewhere in the past a key must of bee lost, and replaced with a non OEM unit, and therefore the Key had to be coded. so the new Software update overwrote all that, and essentially de-sync'd the keys.

BMW wasn't able to code the keys, as they don't do that, apparently they don't do coding in this sense, hence why you order new keys, they come from Germany written for your specific car.
Anyways, the car was able to be started, with the Key against the Steering column, so i found a gent who is/was a technician for BMW SA doing coding and programming, and he sorted me out in 25min, keys all working. and car back to normal. very happy result.

So all in all. the following was done:

BMW M6 iLevel updated from F010.13 to F010.23 firmware.

And a New Airbag done via the Technical Campaign on the car.

Ill be going back this week sometime to have the DCT Relearn procedure and adaptions done, the Tech will do it for me while i watch in the workshop. so thats a plus. and i wont be charged. so may as well have it done.

This is all i have at the moment, but other than that, the car is driving beautifully.
Also since the Software update from BMW a few weeks back, i lost all my coding i did to the car.
So i redid a few things:

Turn Signals on HUD
Entertainment info on HUD
Navigation on HUD
Lane Assistance on HUD
Comfort Closing Delay disabled
Easy Entry on seats activated (Moves the seat back when you switch the car off so you can get out and in easier, and puts the seat back to the Memory position when you Close the Door and put IGN on again. )
Easy Entry for Steering Wheel activated (Moves the Steering wheel inward, and then upward to help make space for exiting and entering the car)

There are a few more tings id like to play with, but for now thats all i need really, the Easy Entry has been the nicest addition, now i dont have to rub the side bolsters when getting in and out.

Also, i sorted the Seatbelt issue where it doesnt retract, i pulled them out completely, quick rub down with a microfibre, then sprayed Silicone Spray very liberally on the belt, and inside the mechanism as i was feeding it back.
Both Driver and Passenger belts now retracted and feel like new.

Shot everyone, so far, im enjoying the hell out of the M6.

 

[General.Massacre]

Howsit all. So another update.
One I've been sort of watching for about 6months and finally pulled the trigger.

On FB Market Place I came across a full M6 Competition exhaust. This was around 6months ago. Eventually, this past Monday I still saw it available, so I offered him a ridiculous price for the exhaust, telling him that either he accepts it, or he can sit with the exhaust for another 6months, as the M6 exhausts aren't really flying off the shelves.

Anyways. He accepted and I had it collected by an exhaust shop, I then arrived this morning to have it fitted.

My exhaust is as you know the basic standard M6 Exhaust, the differences between the two are small.
Standard:
1. Regular back boxes with baffling
2. Silver tips

Comp exhaust:
1. Titanium Black tips
2. Less Baffling in the backboxes.

When I arrived the Exhaust was waiting for me, still with the tips and the front openings wrapped up by the seller.

Car got on the lift and we started removing covers, brackets and bolts etc, and the old exhaust came out.

New exhaust went in easily, no issues at all. I bought new OEM DP/Exhaust gaskets and seals for the install today too. And the tips are dead straight and line up in the diffuser perfectly.

I am very happy with the look, and the start up has a nice deep tone, I can hear the difference from stock to Comp, it's not overly dramatic. I'm still yet to have a cold start which I'll do tomorrow morning, but I don't think it will be stupidly loud, even with the downpipes.
The car also starts up smoother, and I think this could be down to the old exhaust having a leaking gasket between the DownPipes and the Exhaust connection.
Might be placebo effect, but the car does feel somewhat smoother on the drive. Whether it's related at all. No idea.

The exhaust tone MIGHT change slightly as the exhaust gets a few heat cycles, but I'm not sure if thats related to new exhausts only. But this exhaust was apparently removed off a M6 that had only 25 000km on it.
So guess tomorrow's cold start will be an interesting one to compare again the old exhausts cold start.

I'll let you guys know the outcome.
But Im happy with the look and tone of the system now. Especially with the down pipes. No drone whatsoever, just a good deep rumble at idle. It's lovely.

A few things I noted I need to attend to.
1. My one controls arms bolts are switched around, the short one which should be wheel side is on the subframe side, and long is by the wheels side, so I noted it connects the caliper on full lock. So need to get them swapped over.
2. My drivers side rear axle seal is leaking by the diff, as the side shift connection is wet and grimey, so needs to be replaced.

Other than that, the car is still bone dry underneath, no signs of leaks of oil, coolant, or anything. I'm very impressed.
Car still smooth as hell and I'm about 12 000km into the rebuilt engine.

Got a cold start the following morning:

thats pretty much it for now, and this thread is now up to date in terms of changes, and additions, my only issue is sorting out the battery drain, so need to find where the cause is.

 

[General.Massacre]

Oh, and then a few snaps of the car out and about in various points of ownership.

 

[General.Massacre]

Welcome back, and congrats on the nice ride!

Thanks mate, good to be back, haven't been on SS in ages, so back at it.

 

[carabuser]

It's a lovely looking car. I was tempted by a 640d but ended up with another 335i because I can't help myself.

Speaking purely from N54 knowledge, but I'm certain it applies to most other petrol cars that use wideband O2 sensors. The secondaries are used to calibrate the primary sensors. You can't remove them without ending up with innacurate primaries.
Adding an offset to the seconary sensors will probably trick the DME into thinking the cats are still present because it measures the response time delay that is normally induced by having the catalysts present. The efficiency codes will still come back so getting MHD to mute those is a good idea. You can also monitor the AFRs during cruise and see if the car is correctly targetting 14.7.

 

[General.Massacre]

It's a lovely looking car. I was tempted by a 640d but ended up with another 335i because I can't help myself.

Speaking purely from N54 knowledge, but I'm certain it applies to most other petrol cars that use wideband O2 sensors. The secondaries are used to calibrate the primary sensors. You can't remove them without ending up with innacurate primaries.
Adding an offset to the seconary sensors will probably trick the DME into thinking the cats are still present because it measures the response time delay that is normally induced by having the catalysts present. The efficiency codes will still come back so getting MHD to mute those is a good idea. You can also monitor the AFRs during cruise and see if the car is correctly targetting 14.7.

heya mate long time and nice to hear from you again.

Yea the Secondary O2 sensors definitely calibrate the Primaries. which i believe may related to slight higher than normal fuel economy, if i check my AFR value at idle on ProTool, it shows 14,6 - 14,75, but i cannot view both banks at the same time, however they are roughly the same, i have to enter each DME separately which sucks, so i need to look at buying the MHD monitoring tool, and flasher license, even if i do only flash the Stg0 map to mute the Secondary sensors. obviously a tune would dial in the fueling better, but that can come later.

 

[wheela]

heya mate long time and nice to hear from you again.

Yea the Secondary O2 sensors definitely calibrate the Primaries. which i believe may related to slight higher than normal fuel economy, if i check my AFR value at idle on ProTool, it shows 14,6 - 14,75, but i cannot view both banks at the same time, however they are roughly the same, i have to enter each DME separately which sucks, so i need to look at buying the MHD monitoring tool, and flasher license, even if i do only flash the Stg0 map to mute the Secondary sensors. obviously a tune would dial in the fueling better, but that can come later.

Wow, it's seperate DME for each bank?

 

[General.Massacre]

Wow, it's seperate DME for each bank?

technically yea,
there is actually a Master DME, and a Slave DME. and the communication is all on one DME and mirrored, but they split the communication between the two, unnecessarily complex,
so in Protools case, i cant log, or view raw data, or graphs for all values, eg Smooth Running cyl 1- 4 can only be viewed on DME 1, if i want to view 5 - 8, i need to go into the other DME, ive asked them to change the logic so that i can created graphs with a mix so that everything can be on one screen, but protools refuses to assist, so my only option is MHD, which in all honesty is far more comprehensive in terms of data logging.

the benefit of protool is i can view raw data for any and all modules. but i dont use it for half of what i need anymore, so its a waste of an application to have now, unless i plan to do some coding.

So MHD it is...