Technical AzNdevil's RHD 335 6MT Build Thread Last Updated: May 26, 2020

Rob09msport

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Only question is was your friends car stock or upgraded arms cause i felt huge difference with upgraded arms, just two days ago i was running my friends triumph 600 and a car pulled into left lane at 70 while i was doing 160 around a light curve on a normally safe very high speed rd "traffic is usually 90 to 100 off peak". I gained prob 15 degrees of yaw thought i was going to shoot off rd or have to rear end car but i waited a sec before trying to counter steer and the car settled into slight brake induced oversteer and then slowly got back in shape. point is i have my car perfectly nuetral with slight toe in front and rear and all upgraded suspension bushings 440f 700r and is extremely stable i think it might be worth shot trying little less toe out in front and little less toe in rear to keep your oversteer and add stabilty. Also you could reduce rear camber a little or maybe add little rear bar i just have never had good experience with more than 0 toe in front on any car ive driven. Ymmv but just my 2 cents.
 
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AzNdevil

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Only question is was your friends car stock or upgraded arms cause i felt huge difference with upgraded arms, just two days ago i was running my friends triumph 600 and a car pulled into left lane at 70 while i was doing 160 around a light curve on a normally safe very high speed rd "traffic is usually 90 to 100 off peak". I gained prob 15 degrees of yaw thought i was going to shoot off rd or have to rear end car but i waited a sec before trying to counter steer and the car settled into slight brake induced oversteer and then slowly got back in shape. point is i have my car perfectly nuetral with slight toe in front and rear and all upgraded suspension bushings 440f 700r and is extremely stable i think it might be worth shot trying little less toe out in front and little less toe in rear to keep your oversteer and add stabilty. Also you could reduce rear camber a little or maybe add little rear bar i just have never had good experience with more than 0 toe in front on any car ive driven. Ymmv but just my 2 cents.

we have similar springs rates... im at 457f 634r...what tires and camber are you on?
i will change the alignment after my car is put together again due to new lsd but havent made my mind up on how to proceed as i havent driven the car for almost a year... and more power + lsd makes it worse

thanks for your opinion... i will keep it in mind :grin:
 

Rob09msport

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I just put nt05s on 245/35/19f 275/30/19r on f14 sdc 23 offset front 25 i think rear mind went blank on rear its 25 or 28 and running 1.8 front with 7.3 caster and now have very slight toe in like the smallest could register and 1.5 rear camber with .1 toe in . i finally feel have the car balanced where i feel like its an extension of my arms. I do want to up my camber though i think I'm going to go 1.8 rear and 2.1 front as the balance is perfect also turner adj endlinks dialed in so zero stress on front bar and meyle hd rear end links with quarter inch from m sport height drop in back so slight preload on rear bar helped , when car was lower had little snap to it raising slightly made perfect. When my endlinks were stressed i pushed in turns mid corner unless trail braked then release brake to let front catch, now it's just slow controlled rotation if i exceed grip .
 

AzNdevil

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ahh this... my front bars are preloaded at the moment and i got turner adjustable endlinks hoping to fix it as well
i always wondered if this could be causing the understeer at the beginning of the corner

i think you go with 18 inch wheels...everything will change :grimacing: i started off with 19 as well but handling really suffered IMO
 

Rob09msport

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ahh this... my front bars are preloaded at the moment and i got turner adjustable endlinks hoping to fix it as well
i always wondered if this could be causing the understeer at the beginning of the corner

i think you go with 18 inch wheels...everything will change :grimacing: i started off with 19 as well but handling really suffered IMO
Your right about the 19s i just love the way they look and the wider tire helps straight line traction. The endlinks though i cannot explain how much of a difference balance and comfort they make ,really brought my suspension together as apackage before them i was regretting my purchase now it's quiet as stock with amazing turn in.
 

AzNdevil

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Some more progress...
56.jpg


Previous Mechanic broke my valve cover when taking the engine out... so I had to replace it.
IMG-20180713-WA0067.jpg

Previous Mechanic asked me to replace the block's freeze plugs so I bought him the parts. He started doing one but couldn't get shit to come up. Current mechanic cleaned up his mess and told me not to bother with them.
IMG-20180713-WA0092.jpg


Previous Mechanic asked to the front and rear crankshaft seals. I asked if he has the tools to do it properly, turns out he didn't and pryed both seals out by force. Edges are scored slightly so I hope it doesn't leak. Bought the proper tools for the current mechanic to do it properly. Only got pics of rear seal being done. My current mechanic kinda hates me for always asking him to take pics.
IMG-20180801-WA0170.jpg

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RHD turbo outlet pipe is a known piece of shit... I don't want to deal with the silicone replacements available either as the fitment is hit or miss and since I am not doing it myself I don't want it to bite me in the ass in the future. Since I am only aiming for 500-600ish rwhp in the end, I can most likely acheive that with a rewelded pipe. Only opted to completely round out one side and partially round out the other as it sits pretty close to the turbo as is.
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Heres how the stock RHD outlet looks
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Took old clutch pivot pin out. I was going to go with the aftermarket brass one but google says they suck so I have an OEM stainless steel one on order as we speak. For some reason BMW decides to use SS for only 3 cars. Part Number: 21511223281
ss clutch pivot pin.png


Pilot bearing is still smooth and google tells me not to mess with it unless it's fucked.
59.jpg


Now heres where shit goes wrong... again.
Missing clutch pressure plate bolts...Missing throwout bearing/clutch lever arm assembly...
No one stocks these locally since 6MT is rare in Asia... FML

So... my build is on hold... again... waiting for fucking bolts from ECS Tuning...
 

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AzNdevil

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Nov 4, 2016
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My Car Must Hate Me...

Quick Update...

Car is put back together...Southbend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch!
60a.jpg

60.jpg


Started Once..Left it for two weeks... Wouldn't start again
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DME disappeared from the car for some reason...tried to troubleshoot it for 3 weeks on and off... took it to an electrician and he fixed it within an hour, probably something was left unplugged and no one saw.

Anyways... clutch started clunking and the engagement point was fucked. I installed the throwout bearing following stock setting in high position. Apparently this doesn't work. My engagement is ~0.5cm near the top of the pedal. Fuck. Gearbox needs to come off again...

Oh wait. The inlet is in the way! Fucking hell... my mechanic wrestled with it for 2 hours and gave up.
Conclusion: There just isn't enough space to remove the inlet on a RHD car.
63.jpg


So...out comes the engine.... again...
64.jpg


Guess what...they managed to put it back in one piece within the day!
65.jpg


BUT.....somehow...the clutch hard line snapped in the process....
So I am stuck waiting for the line to be shipped over....FML

Fucking hell I just want to drive my car...
62.jpg
 
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AzNdevil

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Finally... some more upgrades and problems

Car is MOTed and taxed. Front end respray complete.
66.jpg


Definitely need new tires... Front 255/35/18, Rear 265/35/18 Bridgestone Potenze RE71Rs
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Contacted @WedgePerformance for a remap so... 3.5bar MAP sensor upgrade!
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Harness Repin.. was pretty straightforward following the guide at linky
Before:
71a.jpg


After:
71b.jpg


I must say, there just isn't enough room for a diverter setup after all the upgrades. My

Flashed the basemap, took a log: https://datazap.me/u/azndevil/log-1549309904?log=0&data=3-11-19-20
Third gear pull from 2500-7000 rpm... Fuck... Half engine light and cylinder injection cut out? Ken said my LPFP can't handle fuel requested and fuel pressure took a shit. Fuck I left my PR LPFP at my garage... and it's Chinese New Year so they aren't open. I was planning to do the install over holidays... guess that will have to wait.

More issues, front crankshaft seal is leaking like fuck. Bought new seals but ran out of time to do the install... guess that will have to wait until holidays are over... OEM seal on the left, Geniune BMW seal on the right
72.jpg


Some quick reviews after ~350KM
Turner 60A Engine Mounts
Definitely usable for a DD, minimal vibration and stiffer than stock. Would recommend 100%

Southbend Stage 3 Endurance Clutch + MFactory SM Flywheel
Both works as advertised. Clutch holds power just fine as of now. Remember to install the throwout bearing in the HIGH position. Butt dyno says my car is around 400-420 rwhp as of now. Clutch pedal is heavier than stock but I can live with it except for long traffic jams where it will get tiring. Flywheel chatter is annoying as fuck. Car sounds like its broken at idle (I don't want to raise my idle for no good reason). Flywheel also chatters around 80-100 km/h and it does get annoying if I stay at this speed.
 

AzNdevil

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My Car Must Hate Me Part 2...

Holidays are over, time replace the crankshaft seal... again..
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PR Stage 2 LPFP upgrade... honestly this was such a pain in the ass
for those that haven't done the upgrade... i can totally understand why someone would pay to buy a complete assembly now

Out with the old
24743


In with the new
24744


LPFP upgraded... let's do a pull! Datazap
.......LPFP pressure not tanking now but...fuel rail pressure is still tanking at high RPMs? wtf!
@WedgePerformance thinks my HPFP is taking a dump as well so it needs to be replaced as well

Out with the old
24746


In with the new
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24745


HPFP is replaced!... but work and weather have not been nice to me... so I still haven't got back to him with a new log...

Also replaced the battery for my remote as it has been complaining about low battery
24747


Two weeks later... my gearbox starts whining... seems like the input shaft is leaking gearbox oil as it is pooling and dripping right at the gearbox...
Tried to look around for a service manual and parts to rebuild the box but seems they aren't readily available

So..... I have picked up a used transmission and its being shipped from US to Hong Kong as we speak...this is really starting to become a money pit!!!!! :rage:

Fuck I just want my car to be normal...
 

Torgus

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Nov 6, 2016
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Just read the whole thread. Nice car and mods. Glad you have stuck with it, you are almost there. All high quality parts you didn't cheap out and use knock offs or questionable vendors etc.

I think your car is going to be a blast to drive any day now.

Have have had some bad luck it seems but that can just happen with the cars.

Keep up the good fight. Aquamist ftw! Are you going to dyno it once you finish your tune?

How much meth are you spraying in your cp? Which injectors are you using? Just curious.

How do you like the rtd shifter?
 
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AzNdevil

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Just read the whole thread. Nice car and mods. Glad you have stuck with it, you are almost there. All high quality parts you didn't cheap out and use knock offs or questionable vendors etc.

I think your car is going to be a blast to drive any day now.

Have have had some bad luck it seems but that can just happen with the cars.

Keep up the good fight. Aquamist ftw! Are you going to dyno it once you finish your tune?

How much meth are you spraying in your cp? Which injectors are you using? Just curious.

How do you like the rtd shifter?

thanks... really appreciate it... this is pretty much a no expense spared project for me...
i can sort of see the light at the other end now...just need to sort the gearbox and hope everythings good

yes i will dyno the car afterwards... but i dont really want to map the car as-is since the gearbox is not in good shape

im not spraying anything at the moment... just want to sort out the car mechanically first before i start messing with other stuff
ive only leak tested the system before everything happened and it was good but didnt get a chance to play with it

the rtd shifter is awesome! its a must have for any 5/6MT BMW if you ask me
ive always hated the original shifter... tried my friend's car with a ssk...it felt worse...
installation is easy if you have a lift... shift feel improved a shit ton... shifter travel is acceptable
but... without all the rubber bits in between the shifter to the gearbox, it does rattle a little bit but i think anyone can live with it
also, you can feel the play/slack in the gearbox which causes the stick to be out of center a little...
if the centering spring is stiffer like CAE then this issue wouldnt exist...at the expense of using more effort to shift
 
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AzNdevil

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My Car and Body Hates Me Part 3

OK let see...

A few lumps grew inside my left leg and I couldn't raise my leg to press the clutch pedal, had to get it surgically removed. Luckily I had insurance to cover most of the costs...

I went on a vacation to Japan cause life sucks. Drove 1200km and paid ~200USD in highway tolls but I get to see flowers and speed all I want in my rental car. (Speed limiter is ~180km/h in Japan)
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Gearbox, had a lot of trouble getting is shipped to Hong Kong. The shipping company charged me an extra 150$ USD to unload it to my forwarder...
Forwarder never dealt with a gearbox so they had to find someone else to ship it and charged me ~700$USD in the end... Going to drop my car off at the mechanic tomorrow to install it
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Got a new ER chargepipe with a Tial BOV cause I couldn't fit my cowl back on... my car was misfiring because one the plugs got wet enough to corrode so may this be a lesson to all the people that remove their cowls.

79.jpg


New Plugs Gapped to 0.022"
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Cylinder 5 is all corroded and shit
85.jpg


My Headlight washer covers flew off, and somehow my headlight plastic holder thingy cracked... so i bought replacements.
88.jpg


After HPFP replacement, HPFP pressure still tanked to ~660psi at WOT....
Logs: https://datazap.me/u/azndevil/20190422?log=0&data=3-20

So I replaced the last piece of the fueling system. The in tank filter/FPR assmebly.
86.jpg


It wasn't THAT hard to replace... but remember to find something to cover the fuel hose when you take it out of the assembly so fuel doesnt spill everywhere.
Push the clip in together with the fuel line, hold the clip in place, twist the fuel line a little while pulling and it will come loose easily. I followed another DIY and tried to use pilers to get it off and wasted 30 minutes.

Full Disclosure: Fuel went into my eyes and mouth cause the fuel line is a bitch to take off if you don't do it properly.
87.jpg


The filter is definitely due for a replacement. I cut the hose from the filter to the FPR valve and ~200ml of black fuel came out. Took the filter apart and well... it's all black. My car has done 100000KM/60k miles and the fuel here is pretty clean. Only 93 oct fuel here.

Drilled two holes, dremeled the edge of the filter (the black melted bits) and smashed it with a hammer until the black thing holding the filter comes out
89.jpg

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This is how the filter is built
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Unfolded the filter and this is what it looks like
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93.jpg


Unfortunately, replacing the assembly didn't do shit to my HPFP pressure. And my Tial BOV doesn't work properly because I didn't upgrade my intake manifold nipple to 1/4inch yet. So my car is now overboosting to ~25 psi when WOT and I have no idea what to do next to fix the issue.

I am considering if I should keep buying HPFPs from FCPEuro and keep replacing/returning it until it works...
God...what a piece of shit. Why doesn't anything fucking work properly.......
 
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Dmak

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Nov 19, 2017
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I cant even imagine how much it cost to have all that work done in hk. Let alone of all the parts cost. Also never let hk police get a hold of your car. Its a great build tho. Very rare someone willing to put so much time and money into a build. Good luck
 
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AzNdevil

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I cant even imagine how much it cost to have all that work done in hk. Let alone of all the parts cost. Also never let hk police get a hold of your car. Its a great build tho. Very rare someone willing to put so much time and money into a build. Good luck

i stopped counting already....:joycat::joycat: as of this moment i think i spent over 300k HKD on mods/parts/maintenance and labor...
 

Torgus

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i stopped counting already....:joycat::joycat: as of this moment i think i spent over 300k HKD on mods/parts/maintenance and labor...

I am at 40k no labor, those are rookie numbers, gotta pump those numbers up bro! J/K

Enjoying following your build. Best of luck with the HPFP issue, got to be annoying as fuck.
 

AzNdevil

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I am at 40k no labor, those are rookie numbers, gotta pump those numbers up bro! J/K

Enjoying following your build. Best of luck with the HPFP issue, got to be annoying as fuck.

HPFP sucks... im considering to buy yet another HPFP from FCPEuro and keep replacing it until it works lol... but its a lot of work and effort....

labor doesnt cost as much as you think...its cheaper than the US.... and 300k HKD is ~40k USD :)

don't worry...after i get my fueling issue sorted i will spend more and either do the cooling side (CSF radiator...oil coolers and stuff) or add more fueling (direct port meth) and more boost

this is starting to piss me off as is...
 

AzNdevil

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just a quick update...i dont have much time these days due to work and life but... heres a summary of what happened over the past few months

- after replacing my whole fueling system, wedge still isnt happy with the hpfp pressure
- asked wedge if the helix hpfp overdrive is worth trying out in my case, he asked me to go for it
- bought a helix hpfp overdrive kit, ran it without vcv table mods to the map, sent wedge a log, hpfp pressure did not increase during high rpm WOT, wedge wasnt happy with hpfp pressure so i asked for an update to the tune with vcv table mods (i was still on a base map from him at the time), but he was still blaming issues on my end
- returned the overdrive kit as it was not working for me and vcv table mods were not released publically
- i must say spool's customer service is excellent and i must thank them for being so understanding with my situation
- after i returned the kit, wedge finally sent me a map but it was too late (4 days later)
- after all the money and time spent with no results, i am pissed as fuck. i paid someone to do it for me since i dont have the time to do it myself. i rather spend the time enjoying driving my car

- since paying someone didnt work out... i spent the refunded money on the hp academy course to refresh my mind on the basics
- spent more time to read up on all the threads out there for tuning these cars
- started road tuning myself, so far so good, hpfp pressures are a lot higher, car is faster than the base map tune from wedge already
- rain, riots and work came around so i had no time to finish up my tune but at least it works a lot better than what i had
- installed an additional bosch donut knock sensor in my car so i can hear if the engine is knocking while road tuning, i dont have any means to record the audio as the audio clipped recording through a mic port, bought a usb soundcard so i can record it through line in but havent had time to mess around with it

- increased power = more heat. oil temps shoot to 120C after 5 mins of spirited driving on the highway, i need oil coolers
- before adding oil coolers, i want to check the stock oil pressure especially during WOT so i have a baseline as to how much pressure will be lost...
- i have some vdo sensors sitting around from a few years ago, so i bought some fittings, going to do a custom arduino/esp based gauge setup when i get around to it

- increased boost = higher AIT, haven't hooked up my aquamist kit after taking the engine out of my car, hooked it up and the solenoid isnt working, cross threaded and stripped the threads on the flow sensor while troubleshooting, ordered a bunch of stuff from aquamist to replace the broken bits
- wired up everything and it works but then....

- starter died while i was at my garage helping them fix some other shit
- my southbend stage 3 endurance clutch is slipping
- since i cant drop the box myself and i dont want my car to sit at the shop and pay for that, i am discussing options with southbend... probabaly will order a replacement full faced ceramic disc from them
- suspension starting to leak, time to ship them off for a rebuild, but im broke as fuck so this will have to wait
 
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