135i Build - Track Toy with a License Plate

gmx

Private
Dec 8, 2017
41
If you do that, you need to very carefully modify the core to fit as intended or come up with a solution. They may not sell the kit piecemeal/separately.
The 1M duct does not hit all 19 rows unfortunately, about 4-5 don't get airflow. Ideally we need to open it up somehow, but I'm going as is for now.
25 row would be a larger challenge, however I believe the space is available. I have to yet to get the car off stands and look at clearance throughout the suspension travel range (won't/can't effectively measure compression, only droop/static). I'll post more pics once there's more progress.
 

The Convert

Captain
Jun 4, 2017
1,011
If you do that, you need to very carefully modify the core to fit as intended or come up with a solution. They may not sell the kit piecemeal/separately.
The 1M duct does not hit all 19 rows unfortunately, about 4-5 don't get airflow. Ideally we need to open it up somehow, but I'm going as is for now.
25 row would be a larger challenge, however I believe the space is available. I have to yet to get the car off stands and look at clearance throughout the suspension travel range (won't/can't effectively measure compression, only droop/static). I'll post more pics once there's more progress.
Banjos wouldn’t be ideal for flow, but you could likely keep same ground clearance your 19 row setup has if banjos were used instead of the 90s.
 

berns

Corporal
Jan 15, 2018
117
If you do that, you need to very carefully modify the core to fit as intended or come up with a solution. They may not sell the kit piecemeal/separately.
The 1M duct does not hit all 19 rows unfortunately, about 4-5 don't get airflow. Ideally we need to open it up somehow, but I'm going as is for now.
25 row would be a larger challenge, however I believe the space is available. I have to yet to get the car off stands and look at clearance throughout the suspension travel range (won't/can't effectively measure compression, only droop/static). I'll post more pics once there's more progress.
Currently I have my fitting pointing upwards, their kit has the cores flipped. Waiting to hear back from Mark over there to see what's possible. Not sure how this would be interfering with suspension travel? Curious what about the core needs to be modified. If it's just grinding off the brackets on the core, I'm not too concerned. If this turns out to be a pain in the ass, I'm just going to fab custom brackets and ducting as I originally planned to. Especially since the 1M ducts don't fit perfectly. Thanks for the heads up!

I’d love to see more info on these. Went to both company’s sites and couldn’t find anything...
They're figuring out tooling and production right now to make them less expensive and do a small batch initial run. They are going to be PRICEY. Strom is a full race shop and these were intended for race cars running full slicks. Likely not something us commoners will be buying, but super cool nonetheless.

My new MCS 2way Remotes just showed up, I'll be pairing those with some new Eibach springs, additional SPL bits and M3 rear spring arm conversion. Excited to get back on the road if my car ever gets out of the body shop.

OrLSUsEl.jpg
 
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gmx

Private
Dec 8, 2017
41
Banjos wouldn’t be ideal for flow, but you could likely keep same ground clearance your 19 row setup has if banjos were used instead of the 90s.
Ground clearance isn't really the problem, it's clearance to the tyre/wheel throughout it's range including lock. My 25 row on the other side is fine but it's damn close, can't fit a finger in between. The core edges touches the bumper and "air guide" on the 1M bumper and when they get up to operating temp... that isn't good. Some might let it slide.
Also have to do something about the "opened" up wheel liners I'm left with. Read: There is basically is no liner anymore. Having some custom louvers made out of 1mm Aluminium, ETA in about a week.
 
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tsaulsbu

Lurker
Mar 16, 2017
22
Any trouble with the G30 lithium battery? I know that folks have reported low battery warnings and trouble cranking with the non-lithium Brailles, but I'm not seeing much feedback on the G30.

EDIT: I should also say, hell of a build. Definitely inspiring me to look for a 1er.
 
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berns

Corporal
Jan 15, 2018
117
Any trouble with the G30 lithium battery? I know that folks have reported low battery warnings and trouble cranking with the non-lithium Brailles, but I'm not seeing much feedback on the G30.

EDIT: I should also say, hell of a build. Definitely inspiring me to look for a 1er.
Thanks! Zero issues with the G30. Thoroughly impressed with it. It's tiny, insanely light and holds a charge for over two weeks when the car is just sitting. Zero issues with cranking or any kind of warnings.
 

berns

Corporal
Jan 15, 2018
117
Well, today was a good day! The car saw sunlight and left the body shop for the first time in about 5 months. It's been a long journey, but it's an awesome feeling to see what's only been in my imagination for so long, parked right in front of me. Just a cell phone pic for now. Long to-do list once I trailer it from the body shop to EAS tomorrow where I'll take over a lift for a few days to take care of maintenance and upgrades.

-Need to make new mounts for the oil coolers to push them further back toward the fender liners so I can build some ducting to help temps.
-Installing the new CSF intercooler, which will shave weight and hopefully be better suited to stock turbo track things, compared to the massive VRSF race core.
-Have to fit the new MCS 2way Remotes and find a nice place to mount the reservoirs.
-Also swapping to M3 rear spring arms
-Full nut & bolt check and making sure everything is torqued to spec. Have had too many loose bolts in bad places, and this is just from laziness on my part. I need to be better about doing things right and checking up on it. Amazing that I set my record lap at Buttonwillow with three loose control arm bolts (both fronts and one rear). I could change camber on all the wheels by hand in the air...
-Swapping out my RedLine 10w40 and trying out some Ravenol 5w40. Also replacing the stupid oil condition sensor, but man do I wish there was a dipstick kit out there.
-Going to install a 185* thermostat as well, because this thing doesn't warm up unless it's on the track which is really no bueno.
-Have to mount the front splitter, and then it's time to get it on the scales and see where we're at. At that point I'll decide if there's anything else I want to remove to save weight. My goal is 3000lbs without me. Any bets?

296MwHAh.jpg
 

berns

Corporal
Jan 15, 2018
117
Well, Thursday was an awesome day! Car finally left the body shop and I towed it over to EAS. I'll start working on it on Monday.
This process was long, and painful at times, but I have to say, it was totally worth the wait. The car looks insane in person and I'm thoroughly in love with it now. I'll take some better pics soon. Crazy that it used to look like this just 1.5 years ago!

FwZxa04h.jpg


And now:

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ShocknAwe

Lieutenant
Jan 24, 2018
636
SC
Looking into rear wheel/tire options for my 1M front conversion. What rear wheel did you use originally? Haven't seen that +48 offset offered.

Also curious what you did to fit that much rubber back there before the fender grafting.

Great build thread, glad I stumbled on it.
 
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berns

Corporal
Jan 15, 2018
117
Looking into rear wheel/tire options for my 1M front conversion. What rear wheel did you use originally? Haven't seen that +48 offset offered.

Also curious what you did to fit that much rubber back there before the fender grafting.

Great build thread, glad I stumbled on it.
I ran the 135i spec APEX ARC8 in 18x9.5 +58 with a 10mm spacer.
Up front I ran an 18x9.5 +22.

Didn't have any problems fitting big rubber in the back of the car. There is a lot of room back there. I ran -2.6* camber as well.
 
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ShocknAwe

Lieutenant
Jan 24, 2018
636
SC
I ran the 135i spec APEX ARC8 in 18x9.5 +58 with a 10mm spacer.
Up front I ran an 18x9.5 +22.

Didn't have any problems fitting big rubber in the back of the car. There is a lot of room back there. I ran -2.6* camber as well.
Fantastic. That's what I have on order, just in EC7 trim.

Why did you use the 10mm spacer? Fuel filler?
 
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