8.8 LSD in: what else to maximize traction?

[M3illa]

Hi all,

I've just installed a SLG Ford 8.8 LSD, Axle, solid diff. bushings, and driveshaft setup into my 6MT 135i. This is a dedicated half mile & 60-130 car.

What additional parts should I add to the following list to maximize straight line traction?
- 15 inch rear brake conversion
- 275/50r15 Drag Radials
- Solid Subframe bushings
- Upgraded rear trailing arms (recommendations?)
- Any other rear suspension components - e.g. remaining arms, arm bushings?

Background:
The car has a top mount Speedtech 6466 Gen II kit, all necessary supporting modifications (Reflex+, forward facing manifold w/ port injectors, etc.), and will be rebuilt with forged pistons & rods over the next several weeks.

Thanks in advance

 

[jzx_andy]

Jake Spence has a rear end upgrade video on Youtube which documents various control arm and bushing upgrades.

I think his upgrades netted him some good gains on and off the strip, at least before his motor went.

I'm going through a similar process on my E92 335i (essentially uses the same subframe/bushings/control arms as 135i afaik). I'd say have a think about adding the below to your list while you're in there, especially if your car isn't low mileage:

• New rear wheel bearings
• Replace OEM balljoints on knuckle end of roll over/camber arm links for fresh ones: LEM-3642601 (x2)
• Replace factory bushings on subframe end of roll over/camber arm links for balljoints - https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWorld-Rear-Camber-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html
• Replace rear control arms for M3 items, and swap the open bushings on the knuckle-end links of them for balljoints: Lemforder 3067901 (x4). Alternatively, replace oem control arms with aftermarket adjustable arms that have balljoints on both ends.
• Trailing arm links (subframe ends and knuckle ends) - replace with Lemforder 3067901 ball joints (x4)
• 1M/M3 rear sway bar setup or aftermarket
• Adjustable rear sway bar end links
• Aftermarket adjustable toe arms with balljoints on each end

For shocks, upper/lower shock mounts and alignemnt, I'm not too sure what would be applicable for a straight-line focussed build. However, I went with ST XTA coilovers and Monroe upper and lower shock mounts.

 

[Torgus]

Hi all,

I've just installed a SLG Ford 8.8 LSD, Axle, solid diff. bushings, and driveshaft setup into my 6MT 135i. This is a dedicated half mile & 60-130 car.

What additional parts should I add to the following list to maximize straight line traction?
- 15 inch rear brake conversion
- 275/50r15 Drag Radials
- Solid Subframe bushings
- Upgraded rear trailing arms (recommendations?)
- Any other rear suspension components - e.g. remaining arms, arm bushings?

Background:
The car has a top mount Speedtech 6466 Gen II kit, all necessary supporting modifications (Reflex+, forward facing manifold w/ port injectors, etc.), and will be rebuilt with forged pistons & rods over the next several weeks.

Thanks in advance

How was the SLG Ford 8.8 install? You run into anything? Happy with the kit? Anything you would do differently?

 

[AzNdevil]

Jake Spence has a rear end upgrade video on Youtube which documents various control arm and bushing upgrades.

I think his upgrades netted him some good gains on and off the strip, at least before his motor went.

I'm going through a similar process on my E92 335i (essentially uses the same subframe/bushings/control arms as 135i afaik). I'd say have a think about adding the below to your list while you're in there, especially if your car isn't low mileage:

• New rear wheel bearings
• Replace OEM balljoints on knuckle end of roll over/camber arm links for fresh ones: LEM-3642601 (x2)
• Replace factory bushings on subframe end of roll over/camber arm links for balljoints - https://www.bimmerworld.com/BimmerWorld-Rear-Camber-Arm-Bearing-Kit.html
• Replace rear control arms for M3 items, and swap the open bushings on the knuckle-end links of them for balljoints: Lemforder 3067901 (x4). Alternatively, replace oem control arms with aftermarket adjustable arms that have balljoints on both ends.
• Trailing arm links (subframe ends and knuckle ends) - replace with Lemforder 3067901 ball joints (x4)
• 1M/M3 rear sway bar setup or aftermarket
• Adjustable rear sway bar end links
• Aftermarket adjustable toe arms with balljoints on each end

For shocks, upper/lower shock mounts and alignemnt, I'm not too sure what would be applicable for a straight-line focussed build. However, I went with ST XTA coilovers and Monroe upper and lower shock mounts.

i have been through this phrase myself...tbh if i have to do it again, i would start off with a m3 rear end swap first before i tackle the other upgrades

and as a dedicated racecar, go for monoball front and spherical bearing arms in the rear

 

[135i2]

Cant go wrong with full e92 M3 rear. Upgraded the BMW LSD to a Drexler Motorsport...great power down.

 

[Jern54]

M3 drive train here with upgraded M3 ZF LSD core with 4 clutch packs and 45% lock up.
Drives perfect with a 6466 on E85 at 28 psi